Elevation: 6,000 ft
GPS: 38.021, -109.581 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 22,376 total · 148/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 21, 2008 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane
Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - In Effect Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A shady wall until later morning to early afternoon. This primarily West-Facing Wall Lies just South of Way Rambo and Bioturbation Wall, and well North of Pistol Whipped. The wall can be identified by 3 "columns" up above on the summit cap, over the right end of the wall. Another notable feature is a left-leaning ramp at the far right side of the climbable area of this wall. The ramp goes from the base to within a few meters of the top of the wall and is climbable.

Good routes at this cliff include, 'Sabbatical (10+),' 'Bon Voyage (11+),' and others. Only about 1/2 of the routes we saw at this cliff were in the Bloom book (Vol 1) and there is plenty of opportunity for new routes here.

Of the existing routes, there are some which are tall (70M rope required, 2 ropes required, or outright multi-pitch) and there are routes some very short routes of decent quality for IC beginners, though none are terribly easy.

Some of the anchors on this cliff have been under-attended and the webbing has been poor. I replaced several of them, but please consider taking up camo-ed chain or webbing and rapid links to contribute to the maintenance of this area if you visit.

Getting There

Turn off of the main highway through the Indian Creek Area onto Beef Basin Road and go 4.85 miles to the sharp left turn on Rd 1041 through 'The Cottonwoods' camping area, continuing across the sometimes high creek and past the camping to approach the East side of this sub-canyon, as for Way Rambo wall or Pistol Whipped. The road bends to the right and continues for some fraction f a mile to come to the base of a brown wall with a hog-back approach on it's right side. A large stacked Cairn at the road by a barely perceptible 'pull-off' is the start of the trail, which is reasonable defined, but loose in some areas. Approach for about 15-25 minutes depending on your fitness and number of cams in your pack. You will arrive at the wall near the base of a few short, un-named 10's and just right of the massive dihedral of the namesake route 'Sabbatical.

35 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sabbatical Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 41
Sabbatical 36
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 33
The Toss
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
Finger Fun
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
De-Birth
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Double Time
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
Workin' Man
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 9
The Womb
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 15
Miscarriage
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 22
Bon Voyage
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 9
Minute Man
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 3
Decreation
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 7
Immaculate Conception
Trad 2 pitches
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 8
Reincarnation
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sabbatical 36
 41
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
The Toss
 33
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Finger Fun
 7
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
De-Birth
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Double Time
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Workin' Man
 6
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
The Womb
 9
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Miscarriage
 15
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Bon Voyage
 22
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Minute Man
 9
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Decreation
 3
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
Immaculate Conception
 7
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad 2 pitches
Reincarnation
 8
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
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