Elevation: 5,734 ft
GPS: 38.161, -109.582 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 12,782 total · 357/month
Shared By: B-Mkll Mackall on Nov 13, 2018 · Updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane
Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Secluded, sunny (or shady) crag between the Election Wall and the Cliffs of Insanity. Great concentration of less-travelled but very high quality moderate climbs with some harder ones interspersed. Expect less than ideal anchors and some sandy rock on many of the climbs. Aspects range from SW on the right to due N on the left.

Getting There

Take the 4WD double-track to the standard parking for Cliffs of Insanity. Follow the road immediately across from the Superbowl Campground to a fork. Turn R here.

From the small parking area, locate a cairn and a footpath through the scrub. This path will dip down into a wash eventually, turn L and look right for a cairn at a turn in the wash. This will lead up through the talus to the wall. Footpath is a little tracey in spots but otherwise well graded and cairned.

24 Total Climbs

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Location: The Beach Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Beach

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 15
Skinny Dip
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 20
Crack Slabbath
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 13
Tomahawk
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 14
Kelley Route 8
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 9
Unknown
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
Kelley Route 10
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Hollowing
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
Rip Curl
Trad 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Kelly Route 11
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 18
Waikiki
Trad 2 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 12
Beach Buzz
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 4
Unknown twin crack
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
Kelley Route 12
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 5
Acapulco
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 7
Hail of a Beach
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Skinny Dip
 15
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Crack Slabbath
 20
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Tomahawk
 13
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Kelley Route 8
 14
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Unknown
 9
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Kelley Route 10
 8
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Hollowing
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Rip Curl
 6
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Kelly Route 11
 5
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Waikiki
 18
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Beach Buzz
 12
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Unknown twin crack
 4
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Kelley Route 12
 5
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Acapulco
 5
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Hail of a Beach
 7
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
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