Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 5,734 ft
GPS: 38.16148, -109.58228
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 21,319 total · 332/month
Shared By: Ben Mackall on Nov 13, 2018 · Updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C
Warning Access Issue: 2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Secluded, sunny (or shady) crag between the Election Wall and the Cliffs of Insanity. Great concentration of less-travelled but very high quality moderate climbs with some harder ones interspersed. Expect less than ideal anchors and some sandy rock on many of the climbs. Aspects range from SW on the right to due N on the left.

Getting There Suggest change

Take the 4WD double-track to the standard parking for Cliffs of Insanity. Follow the road immediately across from the Superbowl Campground to a fork. Turn R here.

From the small parking area, locate a cairn and a footpath through the scrub. This path will dip down into a wash eventually, turn L and look right for a cairn at a turn in the wash. This will lead up through the talus to the wall. Footpath is a little tracey in spots but otherwise well graded and cairned.

28 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: The Beach Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at The Beach

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 30
Skinny Dip
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 46
Crack Slabbath
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 25
Tomahawk
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 33
Kelley Route 8
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 20
Unknown
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 14
Rip Curl
Trad 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
AKA Beach Surprise
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 11
Kelly Route 11
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 19
Kelley Route 10
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 32
Waikiki
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 23
Beach Buzz
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 14
Kelley Route 12
Trad
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 7
Beach Break
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 18
Hail of a Beach
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 12
Acapulco
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Skinny Dip
 30
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Crack Slabbath
 46
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Tomahawk
 25
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Kelley Route 8
 33
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Unknown
 20
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Rip Curl
 14
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
AKA Beach Surprise
 5
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Kelly Route 11
 11
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Kelley Route 10
 19
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Waikiki
 32
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Beach Buzz
 23
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Kelley Route 12
 14
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
Beach Break
 7
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Hail of a Beach
 18
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Acapulco
 12
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in The Beach »

Sun & Shade Suggest change

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

loading