Type: Trad
FA: Leonard Coyne
Page Views: 32,375 total · 152/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Oct 27, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


This awesome splitter is located a couple routes to the left of Supercrack. Climb difficult rattly fingers for about 30 feet and then climb thin hands to the anchors.


Many .75 and #1 camalots. 1 #2 camalot for the top.
The beginning is rough, but the jams get nicer the higher you go up. I started out lie-backing until I could tweak my fat toes in. This one's definitely pumpy. Feb 6, 2002
Casey Bernal
Wheat Ridge, CO
Casey Bernal   Wheat Ridge, CO
For the start, which seems to be the crux, you need a #1 friend then a #1.5 friend friend or equivalents before you get into the .75 cam sizes. More #1 cams than #.75. Excellent route, one of my favorites.

Actually, Ken Sims got the first ascent when Leonard Coyne was recovering from a fall on the climb. When Coyne fell a friend popped and broke his glasses injuring his eye. Interesting historical note in Stewart M Green's Utah book. - Casey Bernal Feb 25, 2002
A point of clarification. The first ascent of Coyne's Crack was originally done around 75 or 76 by myself (pre-Friend area, passive and hammered hexcentrics and other pieces of jiggery pokery). The accident mentioned by Casey occurred on the attempted 2nd ascent (attempting to use #1 Friends instead of 1.5, no 1/2 size units had been developed by Ray @ that time).

Another aside, one needs 3-4 Red Camalots and 1-2 Golds for the top. Climb would be very necky with simply one Red camalot as indicated in the gear description. - L Coyne May 2, 2002
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
This crack is sometimes confused with Supercrack, and I know of at least one leader who thought they were starting Supercrack. He soon realized his error, but found himself in this thin crack with many large cams dangling from his harness. Having a bona-fide "religious experience", he barely completed the climb for an impressive flash. This style, the "ignorant flash" is even more coveted than the onsight flash. Sep 4, 2002
I read the guidebook description for gear to the second set of chains (4, #3friends) and decided after getting my ass kicked I could take in some fun climbing. I don't know where those 3 frinends go up there. I got about 20ft over the chains before deciding to come back down. If going for the 2nd anchors take more #2 frinends, or if there gone take some 4friends.A. Everhart Jun 1, 2003
electric lady land
d-know   electric lady land
i'm one of those people who thought this was super crack. whipped on my first piece, came down, re-racked, and commenced to laybacking and dogging my way up the hardest 5.10 in my whole life. now i do this one at least once on every trip to the creek. Jan 26, 2006
Fort Collins, CO
morkel   Fort Collins, CO
I believe Wild Country came up with the quarter-sized 1.25 and 1.75 Friends just for the start of this crack. I'm just speculating, but they do work so well for the first two pieces. Mar 22, 2008
Boulder, CO
claytown   Boulder, CO
This is a fun, hard route. Would be easier for those with smaller hands. After the low .75 camalot crux, it is a left facing #1 camalot for a long way. Great route but I would probably do something different given the chance since the bottom 25 feet are so polished.

CL Mar 31, 2008
Must be called Sims crack. FIRST ASCENT -KEN SIMS- Jun 2, 2008
I'm not sure if this is actually easier for the small handed folks. I have small hands and I can get better jams than some once it gets to the red Camalots, but the bottom is brutal for me, it's sort of just too wide to get any decent ring locks while my friend with much larger hands could actually get some decent locks down there. I guess it's just the same as any other IC route, the difficulty is hand size dependent. Regardless, it's an amazing route. May 20, 2009
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
The scenario you describe for the start is how us midsize hands people feel for 90% of the pitch. May 21, 2009
JamesLucas Lucas
Boulder, CO
JamesLucas Lucas   Boulder, CO
Next person to call this route soft will get punched in the face by my huge hands. Apr 13, 2012
Ben Griffin
Durango, CO
Ben Griffin   Durango, CO
Well said james! This is one of the only 11+/12- that have booted me every try. The crack hurts so bad. I did finger in a light socket 2nd go and coyne crack has spitted me off many times. I would suggest 3 .75, 7 red camalot, and 2 #2 bds. Oct 18, 2012
Aaron Ramras
Aaron Ramras  
For those looking to continue to the second anchors...i'd like to reiterate that 3 or 4 additional #1 camalots and 1 to 2 #2 camalots is the appropriate gear beta. I failed to notice Coyne's comment above, and instead followed the most recent guidebooks suggestion of 4 #2 camalots. "Necky" was a very good word for the experience...I highly recommend continuing if you have enough gas left in the tank, however, it is also worth noting that the pitch is more like 135' rather than than 120' as the guidebook suggests. To lower with a 70m the climber must swing over to the pillar on the left and downclimb 5.7 OW another 20' to the ground...or better yet, just rap to the midway anchors. Dec 3, 2016
Merida B  
stellar and classic line! If you want to protect the first thin bit off the ground, a 0.5 can be helpful. Dec 3, 2017