Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 164 total · 25/month
Shared By: chris Kalous on Nov 11, 2018
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Looked at this thing for a long time before trying it. Lead up off the ground in pretty fun big fingers lieback, some cool OW slot moves, then hands in a deepening slot to find a modernish Rawl bolt with a stopper hanger. Climbed another 30 or so feet into the deepening and ever muddier chimney to a large hanging tombstone that was moving just when I was wiggling a cam to get it set in the dirt. SO I DOWN CLIMBED BACK TO THE NUT/BOLT AND BAILED.

The new book has vague info about this route that I have to believe is not firsthand based on how awful the climbing was above the bolt. Says 5.11 but no warning about how muddy it gets or loose death blocks. There IS a anchor up high but I'm skeptical that going straight up from the bolt is how it got there. But maybe I'm a wimp?

I am posting to see if anybody has info about the FA, or if Karl can add anything to the description in the book.

Also, I am wondering if the odd bolt was actually used to tension into the better looking crack to the right, or maybe I missed a free opportunity to get over there? If so, this could be an amazing route after all, but the lack of info makes me wonder if it was ever even freed, or stinks so bad that it was better left to obscurity.

There is a good #1 Camalot crack at the bolt, but deep in the slot so wouldn't be very functional to help get to the other crack. The bolt is a few feet out of the slot. Certainly a bolt would have been more appropriate higher up by the blocks seeing how the climbing at the bolt is easy and well protected.

By the time I lowered, I was spitting dirt out of my mouth, eyes, ears, nose and I didn't look around much while bailing from that weird relic.

Also, if another bolt was added at the one I bailed from to make an anchor, it would actually be a fun little varied route. 70 feet or so. Blasphemy, I know. But if the full route was never actually freed, or is a gross and dangerous pile, maybe that'd be appropriate? But then again, does Supercrack need another little 2 star route?

I'll update this description from the comments if any info is clarified.

Protection

Can't say (see above where I DID NOT FINISH THE ROUTE). Starts on green and purple camalots, then hands and a #4 and #5 camalot, then hands/tight hands until past the bolt. Then...?

Location

A deep slot capped by a roof crack into a stem box left of Keyhole Flake, before the other "unknown" listed here left of Keyhole. 

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