Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,952 total · 29/month
Shared By: Joe Keyser on Sep 8, 2001 · Updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

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Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - In Effect March 1st 2021 Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This superb route is just around the corner to the right of Supercrack. About 20-30 feet past Supercrack, this is the shorter right-facing corner. It starts out as a beautiful hand crack, and gets wider as you go up. The crux is at the top where the crack gets wider as the crack moves over a bulge. There are some decent face holds out left to make the moves doable. I think the 5.11 rating is for pitch 2, but, pitch one is maybe a 9 or 10 still?? Either way, there are nice chains after you mantle to the top. Good fun, I'd say 3 stars, but it's not as good as Supercrack!

Edit from Matt Pesce: P 2 is classic big fingers/ thin hands corner. 80' 5.11. Gear: 2-3 ea. .5-1 Camalot and maybe 1 #2

Protection

P1: Mostly 1s and 2s for the first half. I used a #3, and a #4.5 for the upper half. For P2: 2-3 ea. .5-1 Camalot and maybe 1 #2

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