Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,000 total · 16/month
Shared By: claytown on Nov 13, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Location

Right of Bad Rad Duality. Pull an undercling to fingers roof and continue into a tight corner.

Description

Right of Bad Rad Duality. Boulder through a roof from underclings to finger locks to a rest stance. Power up through a tight corner / slot past a horizontal and up to another rest stance on a ledge. Find a way to get off the stance and continue up the slot the rest of the way. Top out the crack and step over right to the bolt anchors.

Who knows, you might arm bar, fist jam, chicken wing, heel toe scum, and or use the arete. So many options...

Protection

Fingers through hands

Photos

caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Unheralded crag classic!

Just a couple of notes: while the guide calls this The Onslaught, there is a plaque at the base reading On-Slot 5.11.

Also, I felt that the gear recs in the new bloom guide were off, it called for extra .75 camalots, and I was getting mostly extra .5 camalots. Great route with a fun roof/bulge pull. May 12, 2010
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
just for kicks, I tried toproping the corner to the right (seen in photos). Mostly sub tips with power smearing on perfecto varnish. I basically got nowhere on it, but had fun. Seems like it could be another creek .13 for someone with the skills... Dec 10, 2010
Neil Kauffman
Bishop, CA
 
Neil Kauffman   Bishop, CA
 
On-slot? Mar 7, 2011
slim

  5.11 PG13
slim    
  5.11 PG13
almost an awesome route, but the rock quality at the start isn't that great. kind of spooky as your gear is in it and you are tugging on it pretty hard. luckily it is over pretty quick and then the rock is good, with fun flare climbing. a good rack would be a set of tcu's from silver to orange, 2 sets of camalots from .3 to 2 with a bunch of extra .5's. a #4 would be handy at one section of the flare. May 17, 2011