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Routes in Supercrack Buttress

24 Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
24 Unknown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
3AM Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
? T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Amaretto Corner T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Anasazi T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bad Rad Duality T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Binge and Purge T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bongo Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coyne Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fat Free T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fingers In A Lightsocket T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fledge TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gorilla T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Incredible Hand Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
International Affair T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Keyhole Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
King Sooper T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Left Affair T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Legend of Creepy Hollow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Man Who Knew Too Little, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Name Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nuclear Waste T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
On-Slot, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Painted Pony T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pigs in a Slot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pink Flamingo T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pringles T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Savelli Crack T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Super Surprised T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Supercrack of the Desert T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Supershack V2- 5+
Too Much Cake T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Triple Jeopardy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Cracks T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Left of The Wave T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown Right of Too Much Cake T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown on far left side of wall T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown, left of Keyhole Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed Finger Crack Between Wild Works of Fire & IHC T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wave, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wild Works of Fire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Zow T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
super bubbushka T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,628 total, 32/month
Shared By: Matt Pesce on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This fine big hands crack is located just left of Gemini (Twin ) cracks. A dark varnished corner begins with a short rectangular pillar. All sizes from hands to fists and maybe some Odub for small folks.

Protection

A lot of #2 and #3 Camalot, two #4s, and 1 #1 Camalot at the top as a last placement. I loved this route.
Mark van Eijk
  5.10
Mark van Eijk  
  5.10
Just as good or better than the named classics at supercrack buttress. Big hands in a corner forever with a few surprises. Plenty of 2s and 3s with a 4 for one of the pods and a 1 for the top. Get on it! Aug 13, 2016
Matt Pierce
Denver, CO
  5.10b/c
Matt Pierce   Denver, CO
  5.10b/c
Take a few #4's for the starting block and the small pods. Lots of #3's for the sustained hands. We used a 70m but surprisingly had quite a bit of rope left. Oct 13, 2015
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10
This thing is fantastic for those of us blessed with big hands. Bring a healthy helping of #2s and #3s (I enjoyed having about 5 of each). This thing is sustained. A .4 or so slots nicely on the little crack on the left to save a piece at the start. A #1 will fit in at the top. Mar 8, 2015
Matt Pesce
moab, ut.
Matt Pesce   moab, ut.
Sustained and clean...highly recommended Dec 24, 2013
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Indistinguishable from 3am crack. They're the same!! Nov 6, 2008
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
  5.10
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
  5.10
This was one of my favorite climbs of our trip. I have big hands, so it was more of an "incredible hand crack" for me than was the real "Incredible Hand Crack." Jul 17, 2007
i've heard not just a few people refer to this as the "4am crack" - its similar but slightly bigger than 3am, right facing corner, etc. - mayber better than yet another nameless crack at the creek - Oct 21, 2005
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
 
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
 
I liked this route even better than Incredible Hand Crack or 3AM Crack. Look for the no hands rest (which I missed) halfway up. It can be done with a 60 meter rope, barely, but be very careful--one or two downclimbing moves might be necessary. The smaller pillar at the start is loose, so pull gingerly! Apr 15, 2002
Ben F
Benfield, Kolorado
Ben F   Benfield, Kolorado
This route is to the left of 3 am crack and also starts on a small pillar in a right-facing dihedral. It can be distinguished from 3 am by being a bit wider and lacking a roof. Another beauty of a climb. Nov 25, 2001