Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,126 total · 33/month
Shared By: Matt Pesce on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


159 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This fine big hands crack is located just left of Gemini (Twin ) cracks. A dark varnished corner begins with a short rectangular pillar. All sizes from hands to fists and maybe some Odub for small folks.

Protection

A lot of #2 and #3 Camalot, two #4s, and 1 #1 Camalot at the top as a last placement. I loved this route.

Photos

Ben F
Benfield, Kolorado
Ben F   Benfield, Kolorado
This route is to the left of 3 am crack and also starts on a small pillar in a right-facing dihedral. It can be distinguished from 3 am by being a bit wider and lacking a roof. Another beauty of a climb. Nov 25, 2001
Charles Vernon
mind & body in Colorado, he…
 
Charles Vernon   mind & body in Colorado, he…
 
I liked this route even better than Incredible Hand Crack or 3AM Crack. Look for the no hands rest (which I missed) halfway up. It can be done with a 60 meter rope, barely, but be very careful--one or two downclimbing moves might be necessary. The smaller pillar at the start is loose, so pull gingerly! Apr 15, 2002
i've heard not just a few people refer to this as the "4am crack" - its similar but slightly bigger than 3am, right facing corner, etc. - mayber better than yet another nameless crack at the creek - Oct 21, 2005
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
  5.10
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
  5.10
This was one of my favorite climbs of our trip. I have big hands, so it was more of an "incredible hand crack" for me than was the real "Incredible Hand Crack." Jul 17, 2007
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Indistinguishable from 3am crack. They're the same!! Nov 6, 2008
Matt Pesce
moab, ut.
5.10
Matt Pesce   moab, ut.
5.10
Sustained and clean...highly recommended Dec 24, 2013
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10
This thing is fantastic for those of us blessed with big hands. Bring a healthy helping of #2s and #3s (I enjoyed having about 5 of each). This thing is sustained. A .4 or so slots nicely on the little crack on the left to save a piece at the start. A #1 will fit in at the top. Mar 8, 2015
Matt Pierce
Denver, CO
  5.10b/c
Matt Pierce   Denver, CO
  5.10b/c
Take a few #4's for the starting block and the small pods. Lots of #3's for the sustained hands. We used a 70m but surprisingly had quite a bit of rope left. Oct 13, 2015
Mark van Eijk
  5.10
Mark van Eijk  
  5.10
Just as good or better than the named classics at supercrack buttress. Big hands in a corner forever with a few surprises. Plenty of 2s and 3s with a 4 for one of the pods and a 1 for the top. Get on it! Aug 13, 2016