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Routes in Supercrack Buttress
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22 going on 23 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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24 Unknown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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24 Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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3AM Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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? T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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[Closed] Anasazi T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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A void T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Amaretto Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bad Rad Duality T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bongo Flake T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Chasing the Dragon T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Coyne Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Creeksmythe, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Fat Free T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fingers In A Lightsocket T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Fledge TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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For the Clients T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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For the Masses T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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For the Shade T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Gorilla T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Honest Aussie T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Incredible Hand Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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International Affair T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Key Flake, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Keyhole Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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King Sooper T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Left Affair T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Legend of Creepy Hollow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Man Who Knew Too Little, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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No Name Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nuclear Waste T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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On-Slot, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Painted Pony T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pigs in a Slot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pringles T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Savelli Crack T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Super Babushka T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Super Chill T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Super Surprised T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Super Zesty T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Supercrack Buttress | 7481 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Supercrack of the Desert (aka Luxury Liner) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Supershack V2- 5+ |
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Tiffs Thigh Gap T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Too Much Cake T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Triple Jeopardy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Twin Cracks T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown Deep Slot left of Keyhole Flake T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Unknown Left of The Wave T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unknown on far left side of wall T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown, left of Keyhole Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wave, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Wild Works of Fire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Zow T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m) |
| GPS: | 38.03635, -109.54551 |
| FA: | Steve Quinlan 1993 |
| Page Views: | 3,375 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | krispyyo on Nov 28, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! Raptor Closures!
Details
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
Fun and burly journey if you want to work on some wide crack and chimney technique. Stout moves right off the ground with pulling a roof into 15' of steep wide hands. Then the real fun begins with getting into the 50' flaring chimney with a 4-5" crack in the back. Sweet stacking, armbarring, heeltoeing and kneebarring for a long ways through here leads past a bolt and into the technical crux of the route, a fist crack through a bulge. After this, about 20 or 30' of sustained wide hand and fist crack climbing finishes the route. While this route doesn't seem to be traveled often (I was eating sand most of the time), it is super fun with great pro and interesting moves, definitely an experience!
Protection
Three or four #3 camalots. Lots of #4 camalots (I probably placed about six or so, and was walking some of them). Two or three #5 camalots are nice to have also. I brought a #6 Camalot and placed it, but it is definitely not necessary. There is one needless bolt before the bulge.
There was an anchor a few feet above the bulge consisting of a fixed stopper and a bolt without a hanger. I didn't really like the looks of it, so I continued for another 15' or so of sweet fist crack climbing with pretty bad rope drag, placed a #2 camalot and tension traversed a few feet right to the anchors of Too Much Cake, which consists of a good bolt with a hanger and two bolts without hangers. As of November '08, the webbing definitely needs replacing. One 70 meter rope gets you down from this anchor.
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