Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m) |
FA: | Steve Quinlan 1993 |
Page Views: | 3,250 total · 16/month |
Shared By: | krispyyo on Nov 28, 2008 · Updates |
Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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2025 Raptor Avoidance Areas. blm.gov/announcement/blm-as…
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Fun and burly journey if you want to work on some wide crack and chimney technique. Stout moves right off the ground with pulling a roof into 15' of steep wide hands. Then the real fun begins with getting into the 50' flaring chimney with a 4-5" crack in the back. Sweet stacking, armbarring, heeltoeing and kneebarring for a long ways through here leads past a bolt and into the technical crux of the route, a fist crack through a bulge. After this, about 20 or 30' of sustained wide hand and fist crack climbing finishes the route. While this route doesn't seem to be traveled often (I was eating sand most of the time), it is super fun with great pro and interesting moves, definitely an experience!
Protection
Three or four #3 camalots. Lots of #4 camalots (I probably placed about six or so, and was walking some of them). Two or three #5 camalots are nice to have also. I brought a #6 Camalot and placed it, but it is definitely not necessary. There is one needless bolt before the bulge.
There was an anchor a few feet above the bulge consisting of a fixed stopper and a bolt without a hanger. I didn't really like the looks of it, so I continued for another 15' or so of sweet fist crack climbing with pretty bad rope drag, placed a #2 camalot and tension traversed a few feet right to the anchors of Too Much Cake, which consists of a good bolt with a hanger and two bolts without hangers. As of November '08, the webbing definitely needs replacing. One 70 meter rope gets you down from this anchor.
There was an anchor a few feet above the bulge consisting of a fixed stopper and a bolt without a hanger. I didn't really like the looks of it, so I continued for another 15' or so of sweet fist crack climbing with pretty bad rope drag, placed a #2 camalot and tension traversed a few feet right to the anchors of Too Much Cake, which consists of a good bolt with a hanger and two bolts without hangers. As of November '08, the webbing definitely needs replacing. One 70 meter rope gets you down from this anchor.
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