Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,800 total · 14/month
Shared By: krispyyo on Nov 28, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Fun and burly journey if you want to work on some wide crack and chimney technique. Stout moves right off the ground with pulling a roof into 15' of steep wide hands. Then the real fun begins with getting into the 50' flaring chimney with a 4-5" crack in the back. Sweet stacking, armbarring, heeltoeing and kneebarring for a long ways through here leads past a bolt and into the technical crux of the route, a fist crack through a bulge. After this, about 20 or 30' of sustained wide hand and fist crack climbing finishes the route. While this route doesn't seem to be traveled often (I was eating sand most of the time), it is super fun with great pro and interesting moves, definitely an experience!

Location

Immediately left of Too Much Cake.

Protection

Three or four #3 camalots. Lots of #4 camalots (I probably placed about six or so, and was walking some of them). Two or three #5 camalots are nice to have also. I brought a #6 Camalot and placed it, but it is definitely not necessary. There is one needless bolt before the bulge.
There was an anchor a few feet above the bulge consisting of a fixed stopper and a bolt without a hanger. I didn't really like the looks of it, so I continued for another 15' or so of sweet fist crack climbing with pretty bad rope drag, placed a #2 camalot and tension traversed a few feet right to the anchors of Too Much Cake, which consists of a good bolt with a hanger and two bolts without hangers. As of November '08, the webbing definitely needs replacing. One 70 meter rope gets you down from this anchor.

Photos

Devin Fin
DURANGO
Devin Fin   DURANGO
the name of this climb is fat free. has a wanker anchor at about 50ft Jun 23, 2010
krispyyo
Ventura, CA
  5.10+
krispyyo   Ventura, CA
  5.10+
Thanks for the info. Definitely a fitting name for this climb. Aug 30, 2010
Sam Feuerborn
Carbondale
 
Sam Feuerborn   Carbondale
 
Update: Has a solid anchor above the roof just lower than the Too Much Cake anchor. Apr 27, 2016