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Routes in Supercrack Buttress

24 Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
24 Unknown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
3AM Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
? T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Amaretto Corner T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Anasazi T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bad Rad Duality T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Binge and Purge T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bongo Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coyne Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fat Free T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fingers In A Lightsocket T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fledge TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gorilla T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Incredible Hand Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
International Affair T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Keyhole Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
King Sooper T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Left Affair T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Legend of Creepy Hollow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Man Who Knew Too Little, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Name Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nuclear Waste T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
On-Slot, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Painted Pony T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pigs in a Slot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pink Flamingo T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pringles T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Savelli Crack T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Super Surprised T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Supercrack of the Desert T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Supershack V2- 5+
Too Much Cake T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Triple Jeopardy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Cracks T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Left of The Wave T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown Right of Too Much Cake T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown on far left side of wall T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown, left of Keyhole Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed Finger Crack Between Wild Works of Fire & IHC T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wave, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wild Works of Fire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Zow T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
super bubbushka T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: ???
Page Views: 1,633 total, 8/month
Shared By: Dave Chenault on Nov 27, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The dihedral crack next to/underneath Gorilla. Easily toproped after leading the later. Starts off-fingers, then goes from thin to thinner, the crux being some serious laybacking around a slight bulge at about 60 feet. Leading this section would be damn hard, as there are few stances. After this, it widens and joins Gorilla.

Protection

A full 30 metres. Several each from tinny to hands.

Photos

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I remember seeing buddies from Canada ripping pieces, 3 to be precise few years ago. This year, my other buddy ripped two pieces and almost grounded. I had this nagging feeling about this climb before he got on it. Then it dawned on me about the video Canadians posted.

Someone should put X on this route. There are about 11 spots rock broke off. Nov 22, 2016
Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
Luke Stefurak   Seattle, WA
The guy, Jeff, who took a fall on this recently is supposed to recovery fully. I wasn't there, but my friends were some of the first on scene.

From Jeff:
"For those who do not already know, I took a ~50ft groundfall last Saturday afternoon while climbing at Supercrack Buttress in Indian Creek, UT when 4 pieces of gear failed (1 ripped, 1 unclipped, 2 ripped and mushroomed). It was incredibly lucky that I only ended up with broken back (T10, L1-4) and a cracked in the right side of my pelvis, but with no displacement, surgery, or hardware necessary. I have a back brace and am already walking limited distances with a walker, and a full recovery is expected over the next several months." Apr 17, 2013
Scott Robertson
Portland, OR
Scott Robertson   Portland, OR
I was wondering the same thing... Apr 12, 2013
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.11a/b
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.11a/b
The corner makes a nice variation start to Gorilla Crack but to lead this through the bulge on thin questionable gear when there is a bomber #2 Camalot crack three feet away is ridiculous. I would give the bottom corner 11- or so with gear down to a green Alien. Mar 22, 2012
chuck claude
Flagstaff, Az
 
chuck claude   Flagstaff, Az
 
Gear goes from green C4 (0.75) down to green C3 (0) with a purple C3 then a red C4 (1) with lots in the 0.3 (blue C4) and 0.4 (grey C4)_ sizes if I remember right. The crux is contrived but it is pretty good fun. Easily leadable and fairly safe with a crux that makes you think more then just jam, jam, jam Apr 20, 2011
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
First Ascent Beta from Bjornstad, 1988:

Steve Hong and Leonard Coyne, top rope, 1978
Antoine Savelli and Andy Tibbits, led, 1986

A 5.10b second pitch was added by Wiggins and Cassidy. Oct 22, 2009
I beleive this climb is named Pringles, and felt to me like about 11c/d or so. Somebody told me it was 11+. The first long bit is all thin liebacking, going from fingers to tippy tips, then nothing as you do some weird stemming through the crux bulge. Gorilla crack is easily reachable from here but is off. Using gorilla crack would definately lower the rating to 11-. Interestingly enough, at least 3 good rests are found in the lower lieback section, with the best, a no hands stem, coming in the middle of the crux moves, making this plenty leadable if youre solid at the grade. Regardless, its definately worth TRing, super quality. Mar 11, 2002