Avg: 3 from 19 votes
|Type:||Trad, 140 ft (42 m)|
|FA:||Earl Wiggins and Katy Cassidy, late 1970s|
|Page Views:||2,367 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||Paul Nelson on May 29, 2002 · Updates|
|Admins:||slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
2021 Raptor Avoidance Areas - LIFTED as of September 1st 2021
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls, and often return to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that climbers and hikers avoid nest areas during critical nesting periods, typically in early March through late August. Avoiding climbing and hiking in the vicinity of the nests and keeping a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the BLM asks the public to avoid climbing or hiking in areas with high potential or historically known to have bird nesting activity. The impacted areas are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. This list serves only as a guide and does not indicate every avoidance area or their many names. For access to a map of raptor avoidance area or any questions about raptors and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Thomas Plank or Jason Byrd with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Full press release: blm.gov/press-release/blm-a…
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
I only seconded this route, and i don't have the most detailed gear beta.
Located just right of Amaretto Corner, from the ground you'll see a thin hands crack up to a very thin chimney/offwidth, to a four foot horizonatal roof, etc. The chimney was pretty tough and bloody for me, and it has plenty of loose rock, so be careful. The roof actually is not that tough in comparison to the rest of the climb- just a really sweet undercling-highstep-lieback move.
For me, the toughest part of the climb was the LONG thin hands crack that goes from above the roof to the anchors. Very few rests, and continuous green and red camalots... ugh.
There are now modern anchors at the top - oversized bolts that you can rappel thru. These are at a good stance, a little below the original anchors (because a slab fell off that led to the old anchor).
This is not a very good route to top-rope, as it is nearly 140 feet high. Furthermore, you'll DEFINITELY want to back up the anchors for belaying your second- if you even use them at all.
All in all, there is good climbing on this route. Just be aware that it is not one of the Creek's pseudo-sporty, non-commital affairs.