Avg: 3 from 18 votes
|Type:||Trad, 140 ft (42 m)|
|FA:||Earl Wiggins and Katy Cassidy, late 1970s|
|Page Views:||2,198 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||Paul Nelson on May 29, 2002|
|Admins:||slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
Seasonal Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas open September 1, 2020
Seasonal Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas in effect March 1, 2020- September 1, 2020 for full details visit: blm.gov/press-release/blm-a…
Contact Jason Byrd at the BLM with questions: firstname.lastname@example.org
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Located just right of Amaretto Corner, from the ground you'll see a thin hands crack up to a very thin chimney/offwidth, to a four foot horizonatal roof, etc. The chimney was pretty tough and bloody for me, and it has plenty of loose rock, so be careful. The roof actually is not that tough in comparison to the rest of the climb- just a really sweet undercling-highstep-lieback move.
For me, the toughest part of the climb was the LONG thin hands crack that goes from above the roof to the anchors. Very few rests, and continuous green and red camalots... ugh.
The anchors are kind of sketchy. First of all, I think that some rock has fallen off this route, leaving about 10-15 feet of ugly slab from the end of the crack up to the anchors. The anchors themselves are one old fixed piton, and one fixed hex. NO CHAINS!!! You may want to bring replacement webbing.
This is not a very good route to top-rope, as it is nearly 140 feet high. Furthermore, you will DEFINITELY want to back up the anchors for belaying your second- if you even use them at all.
All in all, there is good climbing on this route. Just be aware that it is not one of the Creek's pseudo-sporty, non-commital affairs.