Type: Trad, 140 ft (42 m)
FA: Earl Wiggins and Katy Cassidy, late 1970s
Page Views: 2,367 total · 10/month
Shared By: Paul Nelson on May 29, 2002 · Updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

I only seconded this route, and i don't have the most detailed gear beta.

Located just right of Amaretto Corner, from the ground you'll see a thin hands crack up to a very thin chimney/offwidth, to a four foot horizonatal roof, etc. The chimney was pretty tough and bloody for me, and it has plenty of loose rock, so be careful. The roof actually is not that tough in comparison to the rest of the climb- just a really sweet undercling-highstep-lieback move.

For me, the toughest part of the climb was the LONG thin hands crack that goes from above the roof to the anchors. Very few rests, and continuous green and red camalots... ugh.

There are now modern anchors at the top - oversized bolts that you can rappel thru.  These are at a good stance, a little below the original anchors (because a slab fell off that led to the old anchor).

This is not a very good route to top-rope, as it is nearly 140 feet high. Furthermore, you'll DEFINITELY want to back up the anchors for belaying your second- if you even use them at all.

All in all, there is good climbing on this route. Just be aware that it is not one of the Creek's pseudo-sporty, non-commital affairs.

Protection

The whole scope, from #.75 to #5 (camalot sizes).

Photos