Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Earl Wiggins and Katy Cassidy, late 1970s
Page Views: 1,841 total · 9/month
Shared By: Paul Nelson on May 29, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

I only seconded this route, and i don't have the most detailed gear beta.

Located just right of Amaretto Corner, from the ground you'll see a thin hands crack up to a very thin chimney/offwidth, to a four foot horizonatal roof, etc. The chimney was pretty tough and bloody for me, and it has plenty of loose rock, so be careful. The roof actually is not that tough in comparison to the rest of the climb- just a really sweet undercling-highstep-lieback move.

For me, the toughest part of the climb was the LONG thin hands crack that goes from above the roof to the anchors. Very few rests, and continuous green and red camalots... ugh.

The anchors are kind of sketchy. First of all, I think that some rock has fallen off this route, leaving about 10-15 feet of ugly slab from the end of the crack up to the anchors. The anchors themselves are one old fixed piton, and one fixed hex. NO CHAINS!!! You may want to bring replacement webbing.

This is not a very good route to top-rope, as it is nearly 140 feet high. Furthermore, you will DEFINITELY want to back up the anchors for belaying your second- if you even use them at all.

All in all, there is good climbing on this route. Just be aware that it is not one of the Creek's pseudo-sporty, non-commital affairs.

Protection

The whole scope, from #.75 to #5 (camalot sizes).

Photos

Mike Sokoloff
  5.11b
Mike Sokoloff  
  5.11b
A great route to jump on when all the trade routes are crowded. I found the climbing to be quality and very interesting with an enduro factor to the finish. There are chockstones in the chimney which take stoppers very well; I would suggest bringing a few. The roof moves are amazing and the thinhands to the top on worsening rock are a lot of fun. Dec 22, 2005
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
From Bjornstad, 1998

Earl Wiggins and Katy Cassidy, late 1970s Oct 22, 2009
Devin Fin
DURANGO
Devin Fin   DURANGO
new brown soft shuts below the old mess. Edit; cut down the old mess 4/29/12 Jun 8, 2010
Matt Pesce
moab, ut.
Matt Pesce   moab, ut.
Thanks Devin and others for renovating the old Painted Pink Polypropelene Pony. Maybe now more folks will get on this old school classic. Definitely employ your best belay practices on this climb. (Helmets :) Dec 27, 2013