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Routes in Supercrack Buttress

24 Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
24 Unknown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
3AM Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
? T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Amaretto Corner T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Anasazi T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bad Rad Duality T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Binge and Purge T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bongo Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coyne Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fat Free T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fingers In A Lightsocket T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fledge TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gorilla T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Incredible Hand Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
International Affair T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Keyhole Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
King Sooper T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Left Affair T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Legend of Creepy Hollow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Man Who Knew Too Little, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Name Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nuclear Waste T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
On-Slot, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Painted Pony T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pigs in a Slot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pink Flamingo T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pringles T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Savelli Crack T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Super Surprised T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Supercrack of the Desert T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Supershack V2- 5+
Too Much Cake T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Triple Jeopardy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Cracks T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Left of The Wave T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown Right of Too Much Cake T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown on far left side of wall T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown, left of Keyhole Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed Finger Crack Between Wild Works of Fire & IHC T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wave, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wild Works of Fire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Zow T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
super bubbushka T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Earl Wiggins and Katy Cassidy, late 1970s
Page Views: 1,688 total, 9/month
Shared By: Paul Nelson on May 29, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

I only seconded this route, and i don't have the most detailed gear beta.

Located just right of Amaretto Corner, from the ground you'll see a thin hands crack up to a very thin chimney/offwidth, to a four foot horizonatal roof, etc. The chimney was pretty tough and bloody for me, and it has plenty of loose rock, so be careful. The roof actually is not that tough in comparison to the rest of the climb- just a really sweet undercling-highstep-lieback move.

For me, the toughest part of the climb was the LONG thin hands crack that goes from above the roof to the anchors. Very few rests, and continuous green and red camalots... ugh.

The anchors are kind of sketchy. First of all, I think that some rock has fallen off this route, leaving about 10-15 feet of ugly slab from the end of the crack up to the anchors. The anchors themselves are one old fixed piton, and one fixed hex. NO CHAINS!!! You may want to bring replacement webbing.

This is not a very good route to top-rope, as it is nearly 140 feet high. Furthermore, you will DEFINITELY want to back up the anchors for belaying your second- if you even use them at all.

All in all, there is good climbing on this route. Just be aware that it is not one of the Creek's pseudo-sporty, non-commital affairs.

Protection

The whole scope, from #.75 to #5 (camalot sizes).

Photos

Matt Pesce
moab, ut.
Matt Pesce   moab, ut.
Thanks Devin and others for renovating the old Painted Pink Polypropelene Pony. Maybe now more folks will get on this old school classic. Definitely employ your best belay practices on this climb. (Helmets :) Dec 27, 2013
Devin Fin
DURANGO
Devin Fin   DURANGO
new brown soft shuts below the old mess. Edit; cut down the old mess 4/29/12 Jun 8, 2010
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
From Bjornstad, 1998

Earl Wiggins and Katy Cassidy, late 1970s Oct 22, 2009
Mike Sokoloff
  5.11b
Mike Sokoloff  
  5.11b
A great route to jump on when all the trade routes are crowded. I found the climbing to be quality and very interesting with an enduro factor to the finish. There are chockstones in the chimney which take stoppers very well; I would suggest bringing a few. The roof moves are amazing and the thinhands to the top on worsening rock are a lot of fun. Dec 22, 2005