Type: Trad
FA: Devin Fin
Page Views: 7,366 total · 35/month
Shared By: Jason Wells on Nov 27, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A fun moderate route and good one for beginning leaders or to set up for people on their first trip.

Just left of 3am crack on the far left side of the buttress. Look for an anchor about 40' up and consider the options. There are a variety of ways to get up there and they're all relatively fun and easy.

Protection

Various depending on which option is taken. Regardless doubles of various sizes should be sufficient.

Photos

This route is rated 5.9 in the Stewart Green book, but 5.8 seems about right. Lots of rest, lots of options, short, gear every inch of the way. Great intro leading route for this area. Unfortunately, there aren't many near this easy. Nov 29, 2001
This is rated 5.7 in Sharp End's book. Oct 4, 2002
mikejohnson1 Johnson
Essex Junction, VT
mikejohnson1 Johnson   Essex Junction, VT
We looked for this route so a friend could do his first lead here, and after a lot of bewilderment, we realize that it very well may have fallen. The broken column collapsed! Maybe worth taking a look at, its kind of weird. Mar 13, 2009
Alexander Nees
Grand Junction, CO
Alexander Nees   Grand Junction, CO
This climb has not fallen down. Sep 7, 2011
Tim C
Lakewood, CO
Tim C   Lakewood, CO
This doesn't seem like a good beginner lead to me at all. No pro for the first 20-30 ft that you have to run it out before you find the crack. Aug 25, 2014
Anus Herder
Colona, CO
5.8 PG13
Anus Herder   Colona, CO
5.8 PG13
Definitely not a good beginner lead, no beginning pro with a big ledge off the back.. can you say sketchy? Nov 24, 2015
Devin Fin
DURANGO
Devin Fin   DURANGO
After 15+ years I Finley put anchors on this climb it's never had proper anchors... i'm currently removing all the blocks from the inside .. Oct 23, 2016