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Routes in Supercrack Buttress

24 Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
24 Unknown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
3AM Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
? T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Amaretto Corner T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Anasazi T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bad Rad Duality T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Binge and Purge T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bongo Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coyne Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fat Free T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fingers In A Lightsocket T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fledge TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gorilla T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Incredible Hand Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
International Affair T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Keyhole Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
King Sooper T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Left Affair T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Legend of Creepy Hollow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Man Who Knew Too Little, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Name Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nuclear Waste T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
On-Slot, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Painted Pony T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pigs in a Slot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pink Flamingo T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pringles T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Savelli Crack T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Super Surprised T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Supercrack of the Desert T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Supershack V2- 5+
Too Much Cake T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Triple Jeopardy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Cracks T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Left of The Wave T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown Right of Too Much Cake T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown on far left side of wall T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown, left of Keyhole Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed Finger Crack Between Wild Works of Fire & IHC T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wave, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wild Works of Fire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Zow T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
super bubbushka T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Nate Sydnor
Page Views: 1,066 total, 86/month
Shared By: Nate Sydnor on Dec 10, 2016
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

After a lengthy thought process, and conversations with others in the local climbing community, I decided that this was a worthy route to establish. I really enjoyed the climbing, so hopefully others will too.

The name is a spoof on the International Affair theme, and a tip of the hat to the Bill Murray movie. It's also kind of a jab at myself, seeing as how I added this route right in the middle of everything at Supercrack Buttress. Interpret it how you will. I drilled all three protection bolts and the anchor on lead, from the ground up. Although it's short, it packs some engaging climbing like its neighbor.

Delicate and powerful climbing with tiny gear brings you to a stance at the first bolt. From there, wild chimneying and stemming, and one more bouldery sequence lead to the anchor.

Location

The next route to the right of International Affair

Protection

I found the c3s to work best; red to grey. There are 3 protection bolts and a nice ring anchor

Photos

lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I just loved the look of this one as I was walking by. It didn't look too bad to me so I got after it. It turned out I only had 2 cams on me small enough to fit in the thin crack. So I ended up reaching around right and protecting in the crack over there. I also used a lock or two out there before getting back in to the corner proper. It was a really fun mental puzzle and a hard onsight even wiith my slight variation. As I was lowering down the route I did reclimb the part I diverted around and it was fun that way too! May 25, 2017
Coincidentally, I happen to climb the route you started on this fall. Climb up to those footers right off the ground, then do a little boulder problem right. A few hardish moves get to sustained hands and big hands for a while. A deep crack provides a grunty finish. 5.11ish

The anchor is SHIT, and to get to it, one has to mantle onto a dirt mound.

But if somebody (like me, for example), moved the anchor down about 5 feet, it would be a pretty good route.

But your route does not change it at all, so who cares?

EDIT: New anchor from somebody else as of April 2nd, 2017. Jan 24, 2017
Nate Sydnor
Moab
 
Nate Sydnor   Moab
 
Thanks Devin. I'm glad to hear it. That means a lot coming from someone like yourself who has climbed and contributed in The Creek so much. Jan 3, 2017
Devin Fin
DURANGO
 
Devin Fin   DURANGO
 
Nate great vision !!! Nice find !! "But" get ready for the MP "police" bolt haters to shit all over yer hard work ... come spring of 2017 wen every one Who climbs in the creek so much discover you're route on Mountain project .... edit: climbed this rig 12/29 /16 fantastic route ! 11+ is fair packs a punch right off the ground ! Future classic for sure and a great addition to the wall thank you for your work ... Dec 28, 2016
Nate Sydnor
Moab
 
Nate Sydnor   Moab
 
Yo Jay. You are referring to the route just adjacent to this, on the right. Although not listed online or in Bloom's book, you are correct that there is an anchor up there at perhaps 150+ft. If you look at the photos I posted you can see that the corner on this route, directly above me, terminates at about 50ft. Dec 15, 2016
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
I believe I climbed this on gear and it went up 100+ feet to an existing anchor after the bulge in corner. Should check it out further up, my memory could be wrong… Dec 15, 2016