Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 14,322 total · 62/month
Shared By: Tradkelly on Sep 26, 2001 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - In Effect Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A beautiful fun route, and the easiest crack system on Supercrack Buttress. There's a good bit of liebacking on the smaller crack and then jamming and laddering on the wider to good anchors 40' up. It's not a classic and hence usually open; well worthwhile for climbing as a moderate on the buttress or while waiting for other climbs on the north end.

Climb up the main trail to Incredible Hand Crack and head N (left) about 80'. If you hit a leaning pillar at 130', you've gone about 40' too far - head back past a large bush. The little crack is in a right-facing dihedral, and the larger crack becomes the primary about 20' up. Good anchors, good toprope or something to play on when you're waiting or pumped from more serious endeavours.

It's a very good route, but only rates 2 stars because of the stellar stuff surrounding it.

Protection

Double rack plus of #1 to #3 camalots for the short route should suffice. The left crack takes the small gear early, then the right takes the larger stuff later.

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