Type: Trad
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Shared By: Tradkelly on Sep 26, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


A beautiful fun route, and the easiest crack system on Supercrack Buttress. There's a good bit of liebacking on the smaller crack and then jamming and laddering on the wider to good anchors 40' up. It's not a classic and hence usually open; well worthwhile for climbing as a moderate on the buttress or while waiting for other climbs on the north end.

Climb up the main trail to Incredible Hand Crack and head N (left) about 80'. If you hit a leaning pillar at 130', you've gone about 40' too far - head back past a large bush. The little crack is in a right-facing dihedral, and the larger crack becomes the primary about 20' up. Good anchors, good toprope or something to play on when you're waiting or pumped from more serious endeavours.

It's a very good route, but only rates 2 stars because of the stellar stuff surrounding it.


Double rack plus of #1 to #3 camalots for the short route should suffice. The left crack takes the small gear early, then the right takes the larger stuff later.
Every time I've been to IC there have been gaggles of people hanging on Twin Cracks all day long. It seems to be the favorite entry level climb.

I'm also a little confused about the rating. Maybe 5.8 or 5.8+. It seems far easier than other nines in the area. For example, Generic Crack is called 5.9+. To me, Generic should be rated at least a full grade more difficult than Twin Cracks. Feb 6, 2002
Great crack, easily protected and not too sustained. I will also add I would place it at a 5.8 or 5.8+ Its easy to get away without actually climbing the crack for those unexperianced indian creek cracksters like myself. Mar 23, 2002
Just got back from my second trip out there, and I HIGHLY recommend this as a first climb in the area. Twin Cracks is awsome, but NOTE: RIGHT HANGER IS LOOSE! Mar 31, 2002
I agree that this is an excellent climb, and a good introduction to the area. I would also call it 5.8+ at most, whether you use the cracks or not. Probably closer to 5.8 if you use the cracks - once located, the jams are reassuringly bomber all the way up (unless you have small hands - then you might have an off-fist or two at the top with good face holds for your right hand), and good rests are easily located. Apr 16, 2002
Ben Mottinger

Ben Mottinger    
If you are looking for a 5.8, you only have a few options so do the route, but it's just not that good compared to the splitters.

Only the top is a little burly, but it's short. Oct 7, 2002
Steve Powell
Steve Powell  
this is a fun route Oct 3, 2007
Laramie, Wyoming
BretWith1T   Laramie, Wyoming
Poor little crack don't get no respect. Anyway, I protected it with 2 #3 Cammies at the ends and 2 #2's in in the middle. The climbing is so incredibly positive, you really don't need pro until the thing splits. At least I thought so. Sep 21, 2008
The right bolt is now GONE. One bolt remains at the anchor.
Fun, easy climb. Dec 1, 2008
Sarah Kate
Seattle, WA
Sarah Kate   Seattle, WA
Awesome warm-up if you wake up EARLY. May 5, 2009
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
Many climbs here seem to have sandbag grades (especially for an over-the-hill slab climber) but this is a very soft touch. Barely 5.8 - Hard Severe 4b in Yorkshire. May 8, 2009
Devin Fin
Devin Fin   DURANGO
i put in 2 bolt this rocktober. lets keep it safe. Jan 14, 2010
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
Wouldn't you know? The (new) right hanger is spinin', just like it's brethren past... May 10, 2010
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
Fun climb. Did the left option at the top as forgot the 4 in the parking. Maybe slightly stiffer this way but definitely still fun. Lots of big rope grooves at the top from it being top roped. Solid 5.8 Apr 2, 2011
Mark P Thomas
Mark P Thomas   Draper
Anyone know about that second pitch? It looks enticing - especially climbing the OW variation behind the flake, assuming you can protect it! Nov 28, 2011
Hiro Protagonist
Hiro Protagonist   Colorado
Fun, easy lead! Bring a #4 so you can exit the right crack below the anchor. I had to run this out because I didn't bring it... Oct 29, 2012
Second pitch: it's very good, a little harder than the first pitch. Bring a #4 C4 and bump it or bring two of them and you'll be fine (also several 3s, I believe). Mostly laybacking in the beginning, with multiple cracks to choose from at times. Sep 4, 2013
Casey Graham
Colorado Springs, CO
Casey Graham   Colorado Springs, CO
Agreed, the second pitch is a bit more stiff. 5.10ish? It's a cool 3 dimensional pitch, but I definitely though that flake was scary. Sounds super hollow and weak. We protected the pitch with smaller stuff in the broken cracks to the left (mostly nuts if I remember correctly). Nov 25, 2013
Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
Got some good fist over fist jamming practice at the top. So I thought it was worth trying! Fun little climb to warm-up on or finish the day with. Apr 16, 2014
Ezra Boden
Hillsboro, OR
Ezra Boden   Hillsboro, OR
First pitch very fun and secure feeling. Second pitch is harder with more off-width and stretched stances. Bring a few #4's to protect the finish. Some hollow sounding rock near the top. Great climb! Nov 13, 2017
Dave Hug
Carbondale, Illinois
Dave Hug   Carbondale, Illinois  
Fun route, good warm up. I added a quick link to the anchor to equalize both sides. Wish I could donate more. Jan 21, 2018