Savelli Crack
5.13b/c YDS 8a+ French 29 Ewbanks X- UIAA 30 ZA E7 6c British PG13
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 38.03635, -109.54551 |
| FA: | Antoine Savelli and Teri Savelli |
| Page Views: | 5,880 total · 38/month |
| Shared By: | Antoine Savelli on Jul 25, 2013 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
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RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
This route is located between Coyne Crack and Keyhole Flakes. I put it up in May 1999, on lead, on sight. The crux is at top and goes conservatively 5.13b/c. This route was omitted in the recent guidebooks, and is one of Indian Creek's test pieces. Fantastic finish, never done!!
It starts with an easy boulder move to an optional #5 Camalot placement leading to the meat of the route. At first a right facing corner, leading to a left-facing and thinning corner to a double bolt belay slightly left.
Protection
Be ready for some thin pro. Many 0.5, thinning to 0.1 and 00.1. Tiniest TCUs on top offer dubious pro. Rollers are better. I repeated my route May 2013, and just as I was reaching the anchors, I fell unzipping one third of the pitch (scar under anchors from piece popping), a nasty forty footer. Do not do this route after it rains. Cam hooks OK on top. When sandy this climb is a 5.14.



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