Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: not sure
Page Views: 10,179 total · 49/month
Shared By: Andrew Wellman on Mar 8, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This beautiful lieback crack is positioned right in the middle of Supercrack buttress, somewhere right of Gorilla, and somewhat left of Coyne. Look for a large left leaning lieback with a couple of bulges interspersed with killer rests. The left hand wall is a really cool rippled rock that looks like little waves or small dunes on a beach. Start on a small pedestal and jam up the corner for a ways before busting into a lieback over a bulge. Easy, low angle climbing leads to another liebacking bulge up high to the anchors. A really cool climb.

Protection

A couple of cams or each size from about #0.5 Camalot to #2 Camalot. The crack changes sizes alot so you only need a couple of each size.
My favorite at SB, more varied than most. The top crux feels committing, place gear and then go for it. Apr 5, 2002
Brian Weinstein
  5.10d
Brian Weinstein  
  5.10d
What a pretty seam. As an I-Creek 10d, be prepared to place gear on a lieback or cruise to the rests. Bring a couple #0.75 and 0.5 Camalots. A black tri-cam worked nicely before the layback crux. Enjoy. May 5, 2005
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10+
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10+
Best on the wall in my opinion. Great cruxes, great rests, a variety of gear, and a sprint to the finish. I used (BDs) 4x0.5, 4x0.75, 4x1, 4x2, and 1x3.... yes you could do it with 2 of each size, but it is a long pitch (120 feet?), so do the math. Feb 28, 2006
Alexander Nees
Grand Junction, CO
  5.10+
Alexander Nees   Grand Junction, CO
  5.10+
A great climb, but I got a bit hosed by the gear beta in Bloom's 2nd ed. guide, which recommends 3 2.5 Friends. I typically convert 2.5 and 3 Friends to #2 C4s; the gear list led me to take lotsa 2s but only a couple .75s and 1s. NOT ideal gear for this climb; I ended up at the second bulge with nothing that would fit the crack. Take a bunch of .5s, .75s, and 1s, but only a single 2, or two at the most. Yeah, yeah, make your own decisions about gear, don't trust the guidebook, etc, but if this crack takes 2.5 Friends, they must be pretty tight ones. Apr 12, 2010
Andy Koosman
Riverside, CA
Andy Koosman   Riverside, CA
Bring more .5 and .75 than recommended and save some for the bulge after the ledge. Definitely the hardest 10+ I've been on in the Creek. Mar 11, 2012
D. Scott Clark
Boulder
  5.11a
D. Scott Clark   Boulder
  5.11a
Great sandbagged gear beta. I recommend
2x.4, 4x(.5, .75, 1), 1x(2, 3). Fantastic climbing, holy pump! Nov 4, 2018