Type: Trad
FA: Steve Hong
Page Views: 2,109 total · 10/month
Shared By: Mike Sokoloff on Mar 16, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


10 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route is about 250 feet to the right of Supercrack. You can't miss the obvious OW that starts from a pedestal and is the start of the route. A pretty burly route in general. It starts off in an OW which is very conducive to laybacking. A #5 Camalot makes this section tolerable. Where the OW constricts to thin crack there is a notch which the rope runs directly over and threatens to bind up the rope. Avoid this by placing a #0 TCU there to keep the rope out of the crack. After that, start laybacking and slamming the 1.5 Friends. Don't get tunnel vision, there are rests. Get psyched for the roof at the finish. It's burly but all there.

Protection

Many, many #0.75 Camalots or 1.5 Friends (no fewer than 10). One #5 Camalot for the OW/layback start. One set of TCUs should suffice for the low thin-crack section.

Photos

Matt Pesce
moab, ut.
  5.11+
Matt Pesce   moab, ut.
  5.11+
Use a 6 friend with a QD and a #4 in the high horizontal to avoid pinch and protect oneself whilst the crack is thin ! Oh how crisp and clean is this gem. # 1 1/2 friends for the meat. 2 ea. on either side of that. Dec 27, 2013