Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,331 total · 23/month
Shared By: Devin Fin on Jan 6, 2011
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Tight corner blue TCUs c3s00 c3s000 black aliens for the top. At the roof face V2 then low angle to brown soft shuts.

Location

right of the On Slot. small ramp up to thin crack

Protection

5 blue TCUs on down. a yellow TCU at the roof works well..

Photos

Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.11+
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.11+
The crack on this is tight for sure but if you have average size (male) fingers then they should fit in just enough. Use of the crack out right for the first half of the pitch will allow some relief from the tips laybacking higher up. I took into consideration the difficulty of "Fuel Injected Hardbody" (12-) which is somewhat similar when deciding on a grade for this route and felt that it was slightly easier.

Recommended rack would be (3)purple TCU's, (4 to 6)blue TCU's, green Aliens work too, (2).3 Camalots. Aug 28, 2012
ben jammin
Moab, UT
  5.11+
ben jammin   Moab, UT
  5.11+
Hmmm, I'd say V2 at the roof, at the most. Sep 4, 2012
Devin Fin
DURANGO
  5.11d
Devin Fin   DURANGO
  5.11d
i swiched the v move at the top to 2 ... yer right.. MIYG cheers Sep 6, 2012
Jay 1975
Bonedale, CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale, CO
Yes probably only11+\12- Dec 10, 2014
Green aliens almost the whole way a black alien a few .3 and a .4 Camelot maybe a red or grn c3 Mar 3, 2016