Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Keith Reynolds and Leonard Coyne
Page Views: 2,690 total · 20/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Aug 30, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This good but short route has 2 difficult and engaging sections that will keep your attention.

Kind of a bad belay stance next to the tree at the start but its hard from the get go. Cranker second and first digit locks in a tight corner to a corner change with bad feet will hurt you for a short section and welcome hand jam. The final crux is negotiating the scoop with thin pro while utilizing face holds and one quick move to a hidden but good hold on slightly funky rock. (12b or c)

Protection

(3).75, (2).5, (1)2.5, (2).4, (2).3 inch (Wild Country Friend) size cams

Photos

karcbr  
This route was put up by Keith Reynolds and Leonard Coyne. Jun 2, 2008
Patrick Pharo
Boulder, CO
 
Patrick Pharo   Boulder, CO
 
A trad version of Rifle's In Your Face. Awesome. Apr 2, 2013
ben jammin
Moab, UT
ben jammin   Moab, UT
Is the above gear description from the guidebook? It looked like all .3 camelot's to me. I got up to the changing corners and realized my four .3's would not be enough (of which I'd already placed 3), so I down climbed. My first impression was that it looked like .3's the entire way but Bloomie convinced me to get on it with his varied rack beta. Book says two or three .3's and three .4's. I'd take six or seven .3's and then some less than tips for the top boulder problem. Mar 14, 2014
Mike broad
Tucson, AZ
 
Mike broad   Tucson, AZ
 
3 or 4 .3's BD, 3 or 4 .4's BD, 1 #2 BD, Nest before the boulder problem: 2 purple metolius/a green c3, and then 2 grey metolius for the end. May 25, 2014
blue ribbon
Indian Creek, UT
blue ribbon   Indian Creek, UT
I haven't tried to place BD 0.4 but would be surprised if they go in. I recommend 4-5x BD 0.3, 1x red C3, 1-2x green C3, optional purple C3. Sep 27, 2014
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
pat, thats funny...
super hard changing corners! Dec 11, 2014
npaolini
Vancouver, BC
npaolini   Vancouver, BC
Sweet route. 0.4's barely fit and only in some spots before the corner change. 0.3 C4's are good until the corner change and 0.3 X4's or green alien are good after. The rock is also a little soft on this one, so careful not to place anything tipped out. 1x2, 2x0.2, and maybe 1x0.1 for the top. Apr 6, 2018