Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Martin Wilberger and Romain Vogler, July 4, 1987
Page Views: 2,844 total · 15/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Feb 16, 2003
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Just right of 3AM Crack is this splitter handcrack with a thin start and a couple of wider pods. The first move is bouldery, but once you're on the pedestal, the fun begins. Perfect jams lead up to some akwardness, then more fun jamming to the anchor. 1 rope will get you up and down.

I thought this climb was as good as any other line we climbed at the creek. It felt more like 5.10 than 5.11. Don't miss the rest.

Protection

Rap off the 3AM Crack anchors and swing right to a 2-bolt bolt station 80' off the ground, and set up your TR. The guidebooks give this climb an R. It seems like the first 10 feet wouldn't be worth protecting as the rock is suspect but after that the pro should be bomber to the anchors.

Photos

M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
I believe the "R" rating in the '99 guidebook refers to the section at the top that one used to have to traverse to the 3AM anchor. There is now an anchor atop Wild Works, eliminating this traverse. The route protects just fine. Mar 30, 2003
Brian Weinstein
  5.10b
Brian Weinstein  
  5.10b
this route was well protected even through the soft area near the beginning. nice hands to a pod where one needs to delve deep to jam and place. P1 ends on fingers to a set of anchors 80 feet up. P2 is the crux 11 pitch. Apr 5, 2005
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
It is probably best not to follow the guidebook's gear recommendation. You will probably want more than 2 sets of cams. One set of cams to a #3 Camalot, with 3 #1s and 5 #2s will probably make you more comfortable to the first set of anchors. Oct 2, 2005
Ryan Kelly
work.
  5.10
Ryan Kelly   work.
  5.10
I was under the impression that the .11 rating was for the second pitch. The first pitch is .10. Sep 23, 2008
claytown
Boulder, CO
claytown   Boulder, CO
I also thought the R was for P2. P1 looks pretty solid and the rock at the beginning definitely looks good enough to toss in some finger pieces. Nov 13, 2008
FA: Martin Wilberger and Romain Vogler, July 4, 1987. Dec 5, 2008
tourjee Tourjee
Moab, UT
tourjee Tourjee   Moab, UT
Just at the creek this weekend and the starting pillar of this climb has a loose detached block that appears solid but is actually cracked horizontally across the pillar. Definitely gonna pull off soon. Apr 20, 2010
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.10
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.10
At least there are a couple of decent rests on this one. Take lots of #2 Camalots and Friend #3s for the main crack section, smaller stuff at bottom and top. Getting up the pod 2/3 of the way up is really awkward, especially if you have big shoulders. UK grade tough E1 5b. Oct 16, 2010
Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
  5.10c
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
  5.10c
This route is great after doing 3AM. 3AM is a burl-fest, and pretty much the same moves the whole way (FYI, I loved 3AM). But this route is all creativity. Pods, flaring handcrack type overhang-y parts. A great and creative route! A nice contrast to 3AM. Apr 16, 2014
Ben Smith
Sunnyvale, CA
Ben Smith   Sunnyvale, CA
On anchors and the grade:
- There is an anchor at 50'. Climbing to this 5.10.
- Climbing to 100' is 5.11(-). The traverse at 50' is not R-rated.
- Bloom describes a 2-bolt anchor at 100'. This anchor does not exist, or I couldn't find it. I traversed to the anchors on 3AM Crack, and this was R-rated.
- There may be bolted anchors on the 2nd pitch, or they may be a myth. I didn't venture this far.
- Now there's less of a chance you'll get Bloombagged. Jul 1, 2017
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.10
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
  5.10
No R rating needed for this route Nov 5, 2017