Unknown Left of The Wave
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 1,143 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Chris Kalous on Apr 3, 2017 · Updates |
Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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2025 Raptor Avoidance Areas. blm.gov/announcement/blm-as…
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
I started on what is now The Man Who Knew Too Little and stepped right into hand jam then finger crack, but the direct looks possible, but harder. Steep thin hands relents to big hands, and fists/arm in a groove. Then a steep tight groove with green and purple camalots in the back relents to hands to the anchor (after an awkward, mantle-y move to stance).
Protection
Camalot .1-.4 for the start.
Camalot .75-4 for the middle.
Save a couple .75s, .5s, and 2s for the top groove.
New Anchor as of April 2nd, 2017 (Not from me).
An 80 meter does not quite reach the ground. We used one to lower, but it required shenanigans to get the person untied and on the ground!
TIE A KNOT IN THE END OF YOUR ROPE ALWAYS!
Camalot .75-4 for the middle.
Save a couple .75s, .5s, and 2s for the top groove.
New Anchor as of April 2nd, 2017 (Not from me).
An 80 meter does not quite reach the ground. We used one to lower, but it required shenanigans to get the person untied and on the ground!
TIE A KNOT IN THE END OF YOUR ROPE ALWAYS!
Photos
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