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Unknown Left of The Wave [Edit]
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
Routes in Supercrack Buttress
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24 Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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24 Unknown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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3AM Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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? T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Amaretto Corner T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Anasazi T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bad Rad Duality T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Binge and Purge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bongo Flake T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Coyne Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Fat Free T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fingers In A Lightsocket T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Fledge TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gorilla T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Incredible Hand Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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International Affair T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Keyhole Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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King Sooper T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Left Affair T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Legend of Creepy Hollow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Man Who Knew Too Little, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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No Name Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nuclear Waste T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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On-Slot, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Painted Pony T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pigs in a Slot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pillar of Bullshit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pink Flamingo T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Pringles T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Savelli Crack T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Super Surprised T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Supercrack of the Desert T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Supershack V2- 5+ |
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Too Much Cake T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Triple Jeopardy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Twin Cracks T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown Left of The Wave T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unknown Right of Too Much Cake T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown on far left side of wall T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown, left of Keyhole Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unnamed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unnamed Finger Crack Between Wild Works of Fire & IHC T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Wave, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Wild Works of Fire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Zow T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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super bubbushka T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Trad, 140 ft |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 212 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | chris Kalous on Apr 3, 2017 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description [Edit]
I started on what is now The Man Who Knew Too Little and stepped right into hand jam then finger crack, but the direct looks possible, but harder. Steep thin hands relents to big hands, and fists/arm in a groove. Then a steep tight groove with green and purple camalots in the back relents to hands to the anchor (after an awkward, mantle-y move to stance).
Protection [Edit]
Camalot .1-.4 for the start.
Camalot .75-4 for the middle.
Save a couple .75s, .5s, and 2s for the top groove.
New Anchor as of April 2nd, 2017 (Not from me).
An 80 meter does not quite reach the ground. We used one to lower, but it required shenanigans to get the person untied and on the ground!
TIE A KNOT IN THE END OF YOUR ROPE ALWAYS!
Camalot .75-4 for the middle.
Save a couple .75s, .5s, and 2s for the top groove.
New Anchor as of April 2nd, 2017 (Not from me).
An 80 meter does not quite reach the ground. We used one to lower, but it required shenanigans to get the person untied and on the ground!
TIE A KNOT IN THE END OF YOUR ROPE ALWAYS!
Photos
- No Photos -
Moab