Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,516 total · 13/month
Shared By: Jared Brin on Apr 24, 2003
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


41 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route is just left of Keyhole Flake and climbs a offwidth flake to a step right across to a fun, thin lieback flake. The step across is the crux.

Protection

A few cams from .5 to 2 Camalot, a large stopper on a stick or a very large cam might protect the start

Photos

William McGehee
Choctaw, OK
 
William McGehee   Choctaw, OK
 
A number 10 Metolius nut works very well to protect the bottom of the crack. If your leader is WAY to sketched out to place this, there are two options: Lift someone on to your shoulders to place the nut on a QD or place a #5 Camalot in the huge offwidth on the left that contains the side-pull hold necessary to gain the crack. Led this for the second time yesterday and all I have to say is that the nut is BOMBER... Make sure your belayer is to the right of the climb near the wall to avoid BAD rope-burn... Oct 6, 2003
steven sadler
SLC, UT
steven sadler   SLC, UT
the number 5 BD cam doesn't fit at the top of the OW crack. we got way too sketched out so we picked up a girl and she set a nut to start it off. i would recommend it because the kid who led it after we placed the nut would've decked. he took a nice fall on the nut. without it... ouch. Sep 19, 2010
Alexander Nees
Grand Junction, CO
  5.10
Alexander Nees   Grand Junction, CO
  5.10
A #6 C4 works to protect the offwidth (I'm sure a #6 Friend would work too). It's not big enough for the very top of the offwidth, but it can be set high enough to prevent a groundfall when traversing right into the finger crack. I'd recommend the big piece for this route, especially if it's your first time on it. The traverse move is a bit funky and a fall from there could be ugly. Great climb though! Apr 3, 2012
Jeremy Bauman
Lakewood, CO
Jeremy Bauman   Lakewood, CO
You can "rodeo clip" a nut -- or "rodeo place" I suppose -- a grey (#7) Wallnut or a little bigger. #sinker. Nov 6, 2017