Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: K3, Jay Ackerman
Page Views: 3,199 total · 34/month
Shared By: Karl kelley on Aug 9, 2011
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Can be climbed as 1 or 2 pitches. Start up a splitter fingers crack using the chimney on the right. After a body length or so, enter the chimney and scramble over some blocks (secure) to the back. Ascend the left facing hand crack with the pillar that forms the chimney at your back until you are at the top of the chimney. opt. bolted belay here.
Climb the left facing hand crack with the crux being at the top just before the anchor.

Location

The left facing corner just left of "rad bad" with a pillar at its base..
rap the route: rap to the top of the pillar. Then rap down the front of the pillar, this will assure you wont get your rope stuck in the chimney

Protection

p1. .3, 1camalot, a couple of shoulder length slings
p2. .75-3 camalots heaviest on gold and blue's

Photos

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Karl kelley
  5.10-
Karl kelley  
  5.10-
In Doc Blooms 2nd addition, this route is marked as #2 "unnamed" 5.11+
There were no anchors on the tips splitter nor any evidence that it had ever been climbed (flakey and loose where for sure you would clean it out to climb it)so we continued up the corner thinking the corner must have anchors. It was obvious half way up the route, to our surprise, it had not been ascended. Great route with stacks of hand jams.. There is a climb just left of this (left Facing corner to a splitter) Then left of it, is a fingers crack with a hidden anchor over a bulge that maybe Doctor Bloom was talking about and it just got miss marked in the book.. Aug 9, 2011
Devin Fin
DURANGO
Devin Fin   DURANGO
Karl thanks for talking to me at SC this summer you are a wealth of knowledge .. this route an all the others you have put up over the years have made me the climber i am.. thanks Aug 21, 2012
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.10-
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.10-
Don't let the first pitch scare you away. The second pitch is hidden from below but is totally worth the effort. Aug 28, 2012
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
  5.10
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
  5.10
Very fun as one long pitch, get creative with the rope management or drag could be heinous. We were able to get down with an 80m rope without any directionals, but just barely. I also liked having 2 .3's and a .4 for the start. Crazy this didn't have anchors on it, great find! FYI the left bolt (not the hanger) on the anchor atop the pillar is moving. Oct 6, 2013
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10
Great route, and still "undiscovered by the masses" despite being a short 3 minute walk left of 3AM crack.

Walk left past Rad Bad and go about 50 feet until you are staring at a chimney with a finger crack next to it.

Small cams up to #0.5 for the finger crack into the chimney. And then a handsize cam (#1, #2, or #3 will all fit as you climb higher) up to the belay atop of the pillar. I'd say the first pitch felt 5.9ish.

Second pitch is great. It goes from hands to big hands, back to hangs and then steadily pinches down to tight hands. I thought the top was the crux... my wife though the wider bit in the middle was the crux. YMMV.

Great route, and sure to become popular. Get on it while it's still gritty!

Gear: a few small cams to #0.5. Reds, Golds, and Blues for the meat of the climb. You could throw a #0.75 in at the very top. Most normal people will want 3 to 5 golds and blues, and maybe one or two reds. Oct 18, 2014