Type: Trad
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Shared By: Tradkelly on Nov 23, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


There are some awkward sections, particularly prior to the transition from fingers to hands, but plenty of holds lower where they're useful, and a few places for feet stemming (it goes both as a lieback and a jam higher). Good anchors, 70' (I'm a wimp, used 16 pieces), and a good choice if solid jamfest climbs are occupied or if you're more mixed in your technique than just jam-jam-jam.

It's located 40 feet north (left) of Coyne's, faces west/northwest. Look for lower anchors than the other climbs in the area with a fingers flake opening to a left-facing #3 featured crack. The belay pad is a walkway along the buttress' base so be courteous.

I only rate it a 2-star because there are so many awesome cracks around it to climb. It's still very worthwhile and I thought an awesome climb.


Mix up medium to large cams; blue and yellow TCUs help low, and 4-5 #3-3.5 camalots higher, with a few other pieces in the spectrum. A #4 camalot works if you're light on 3s. Guidebooks vary in their suggestions of gear, but I was happier going heavy.


This is a great varied route. My biggest piece was a #4 Friend, and I think I only brought one, but I was happy to have it. Nov 30, 2001
good gear description. stewart green's book recommends gear to #3 friend (which seems really small for the top). i would definitely recommend bringing several pieces around #3 camalot size. fun route, kind of eldo-esque at the start (especially if you pound on the flake-drum at the bottom :) Dec 7, 2001
Craig Quincy
Louisville, CO
Craig Quincy   Louisville, CO
Some fist side gear is in order whether that's a #4 friend, a #4 camalot or a #3 - #3.5 camalot. A couple in that size might even be a good idea. Both the Indian Creek Climbs guide book and the Super Topo from Rock and Ice list the rack as only up to #2.5 friend. This is definitely an error. Oct 19, 2003
Lon Black  
The awkward sections require some thought and footwork atypical of most Indian Creek splitters. Nice weight shifts and changing crack sizes and angles make this a fun, unique line. Apr 10, 2005
Ty Gittins
Ty Gittins   bozeman
I agree....excellent route. 1 new #4 was handy. Apr 30, 2010
New Paltz
Optimistic   New Paltz
I took a hang on a cam about 1/3 of the way up the initial flake, and it shifted a little when I did,but held my weight. Then I unweighted the cam to start climbing again, and when I did the whole flake moved. The flake, about 20 feet tall, is completely detached aside from a triangular base about 2 feet on a side. All your pro and holds depend on that flake until you get to the blue camalot section. Apr 8, 2016
Tyler N
Salt Lake City, UT
Tyler N   Salt Lake City, UT
Bring at least one #4 camalot, #3's will be tipped out at best for quite a ways up there. Also, as Optimistic said above, this thing felt scary hollow and kinda loose... Oct 15, 2017