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Routes in Supercrack Buttress

24 Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
24 Unknown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
3AM Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
? T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Amaretto Corner T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Anasazi T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bad Rad Duality T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Binge and Purge T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bongo Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coyne Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fat Free T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fingers In A Lightsocket T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fledge TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gorilla T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Incredible Hand Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
International Affair T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Keyhole Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
King Sooper T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Left Affair T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Legend of Creepy Hollow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Man Who Knew Too Little, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Name Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nuclear Waste T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
On-Slot, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Painted Pony T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pigs in a Slot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pink Flamingo T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pringles T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Savelli Crack T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Super Surprised T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Supercrack of the Desert T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Supershack V2- 5+
Too Much Cake T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Triple Jeopardy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Cracks T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Left of The Wave T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown Right of Too Much Cake T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown on far left side of wall T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown, left of Keyhole Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed Finger Crack Between Wild Works of Fire & IHC T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wave, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wild Works of Fire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Zow T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
super bubbushka T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 23,400 total, 114/month
Shared By: Dan St. John on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This climb is left of Incredible Hand Crack. Look for the first climb that has a small pillar at its base. Above the pillar, the climb continues as a right-facing dihedral. Not too far above the pillar is a small roof. You'll see the rest.

Make sure you milk the rest a little more than half way up. This climb is sustained.

Protection

My favorite climb on the Supercrack Buttress. The start is thin for me, but 4 #1 Camalots will be more than enough. The rest of the way I placed #2 and #3 Camalots. I took 6 #2s and 6 #3s. It can be done with one rope. With rope stretch you will just reach the ground, or miss by 3 feet.

Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.10+
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
  5.10+
5.10+ because how burly and sustained the route is Nov 5, 2017
Margie Root  
 
I lost a black Patagonia R1 pullover with no hood at this wall today (April 14) at the base of 3 am crack. If anyone sees it can you shoot me a message at rocknrunmargie at gmail dot com or on here please? Thank you! Apr 14, 2016
This climb is closer to 130 than 100 Mar 3, 2016
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10
Bloom says it is 105', this description says 100', it is at least 110- 115', use a 70m rope. One of my favorite climbs, if someone is on it, do noname 10 to the left, similar right facing corner that is mostly BD #3. Apr 3, 2014
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
 
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
 
This thing is classic, climbed it at the end of an adopt a crag day, as the sun was departing. being relatively new to the creek I misinterpreted the rack beta in the book and brought nothing smaller then a #2. I soloed up the pillar and realized my mistake, it's #1's all the way to the roof... luckily I soloed to the top of the pillar so I had my belayer take me off belay and tag 3 #1's up to me. I raced for the lip with thin hands, rested at the lip, cruised the hands, slowed a little through the wide but kept fighting for the on sight. lead IHC later by headlamp and found it to be less sustained & possibly easier. Dec 7, 2012
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
I liked this one even better than IHC. Jul 16, 2012
Matt Hoffmann
Squamish
 
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
 
Seriously sustained climb. I climbed this actually thinking it was incredible hand crack (went back later and did IHC which is way easier).

Make sure you have 1 smaller piece for the start (pillar) if you aren't super confident (I put a green c4 but, a purple would fit a bit lower). Super fun hands section gets you nice and pumped for the wide hands. The little cave to sit down in at the end is an awesome finish. 4 star route! Apr 20, 2012
HeatherB-Radley
Augsburg, Germany
HeatherB-Radley   Augsburg, Germany
super fun, but small hands watch out- its perfect-amazing-wonderful hands for the first 3rd, then you get an enduro fest of tight fists- to -too big for fists that seems never ending...

really fun, but you've got to enjoy a little torture if you have small hands like me :) Dec 2, 2009
I agree w/ those who think that this is a better route than IHC. Not to put any route down in the Creek. I thought is was just superb. Superb!!
Big big hands at the top. Bring some #3's or equivalent.

70 meter rope works fine. Just make sure you're using your 70. :) Mar 22, 2009
Greg D
Here
Greg D   Here
Check your rope length (as always). Someone got dropped on Sunday while being lowered cause the rope shot through the belayers hand before the climber reached the ground. He fell 15 or 20 feet. I hope he is recovering ok. Does anyone know his status? Oct 8, 2008
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
AWESOME line! Better than incredible. More sustained in the r-facing corner. Easier for small hands. Superb!

CL Mar 31, 2008
We climbed this route in Late May and there must be something sharp on the anchor. We looked at my rope after it was pulled and there was considerable sheath damage. Check them out before you get lowered. Jun 14, 2007
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
My partner and I lead this at the end of a long day. When I finished this route it was absolutely beer:30. This is a great route, emphasis on great. We descended with two ropes, if you have'em, use'em. We found this thing to be pretty damn tiring, bust through the thin hands and hands because the hardest section, at least for me, was the last 30 or 40 feet of #3s. Did I mention that this was a great route! Feb 9, 2006
Brian Weinstein
  5.10b
Brian Weinstein  
  5.10b
possibly the finest hand crack on the buttress. classic! Jan 16, 2006
This route is awesome. I compare it supercrack quality for it had diverse moves(slab, fist, hand, finger, flakes, liebacks). This climb demands a number of different skills as well as some endurance(not too many rest stances). One of the best routes I have climbed.

The flake pulling past the thin crack was some of the coolest climbing I have ever done. I really enjoyed the fist/wide hand crack as well.

This climb is really sustained and I had just never had such a hard time on a 5.10 flat. Mar 22, 2003
yeah, it is a a thin start. Just punch through it quickly to get to a good handjam rest right below the little lip.I think that it is definitely adviseable just to lower down to the top of the boulder and downclimb the last fifteen feet if you don't have a 70m rope. Oct 12, 2002