Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 24,903 total · 113/month
Shared By: Dan St. John on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


This climb is left of Incredible Hand Crack. Look for the first climb that has a small pillar at its base. Above the pillar, the climb continues as a right-facing dihedral. Not too far above the pillar is a small roof. You'll see the rest.

Make sure you milk the rest a little more than half way up. This climb is sustained.


My favorite climb on the Supercrack Buttress. The start is thin for me, but 4 #1 Camalots will be more than enough. The rest of the way I placed #2 and #3 Camalots. I took 6 #2s and 6 #3s. It can be done with one rope. With rope stretch you will just reach the ground, or miss by 3 feet.
yeah, it is a a thin start. Just punch through it quickly to get to a good handjam rest right below the little lip.I think that it is definitely adviseable just to lower down to the top of the boulder and downclimb the last fifteen feet if you don't have a 70m rope. Oct 12, 2002
This route is awesome. I compare it supercrack quality for it had diverse moves(slab, fist, hand, finger, flakes, liebacks). This climb demands a number of different skills as well as some endurance(not too many rest stances). One of the best routes I have climbed.

The flake pulling past the thin crack was some of the coolest climbing I have ever done. I really enjoyed the fist/wide hand crack as well.

This climb is really sustained and I had just never had such a hard time on a 5.10 flat. Mar 22, 2003
Brian Weinstein
Brian Weinstein  
possibly the finest hand crack on the buttress. classic! Jan 16, 2006
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
My partner and I lead this at the end of a long day. When I finished this route it was absolutely beer:30. This is a great route, emphasis on great. We descended with two ropes, if you have'em, use'em. We found this thing to be pretty damn tiring, bust through the thin hands and hands because the hardest section, at least for me, was the last 30 or 40 feet of #3s. Did I mention that this was a great route! Feb 9, 2006
We climbed this route in Late May and there must be something sharp on the anchor. We looked at my rope after it was pulled and there was considerable sheath damage. Check them out before you get lowered. Jun 14, 2007
Boulder, CO
claytown   Boulder, CO
AWESOME line! Better than incredible. More sustained in the r-facing corner. Easier for small hands. Superb!

CL Mar 31, 2008
Greg D
Greg D   Here
Check your rope length (as always). Someone got dropped on Sunday while being lowered cause the rope shot through the belayers hand before the climber reached the ground. He fell 15 or 20 feet. I hope he is recovering ok. Does anyone know his status? Oct 8, 2008
I agree w/ those who think that this is a better route than IHC. Not to put any route down in the Creek. I thought is was just superb. Superb!!
Big big hands at the top. Bring some #3's or equivalent.

70 meter rope works fine. Just make sure you're using your 70. :) Mar 22, 2009
Augsburg, Germany
HeatherB-Radley   Augsburg, Germany
super fun, but small hands watch out- its perfect-amazing-wonderful hands for the first 3rd, then you get an enduro fest of tight fists- to -too big for fists that seems never ending...

really fun, but you've got to enjoy a little torture if you have small hands like me :) Dec 2, 2009
Matt Hoffmann
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
Seriously sustained climb. I climbed this actually thinking it was incredible hand crack (went back later and did IHC which is way easier).

Make sure you have 1 smaller piece for the start (pillar) if you aren't super confident (I put a green c4 but, a purple would fit a bit lower). Super fun hands section gets you nice and pumped for the wide hands. The little cave to sit down in at the end is an awesome finish. 4 star route! Apr 20, 2012
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
I liked this one even better than IHC. Jul 16, 2012
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
This thing is classic, climbed it at the end of an adopt a crag day, as the sun was departing. being relatively new to the creek I misinterpreted the rack beta in the book and brought nothing smaller then a #2. I soloed up the pillar and realized my mistake, it's #1's all the way to the roof... luckily I soloed to the top of the pillar so I had my belayer take me off belay and tag 3 #1's up to me. I raced for the lip with thin hands, rested at the lip, cruised the hands, slowed a little through the wide but kept fighting for the on sight. lead IHC later by headlamp and found it to be less sustained & possibly easier. Dec 7, 2012
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
Bloom says it is 105', this description says 100', it is at least 110- 115', use a 70m rope. One of my favorite climbs, if someone is on it, do noname 10 to the left, similar right facing corner that is mostly BD #3. Apr 3, 2014
This climb is closer to 130 than 100 Mar 3, 2016
Margie Root
Los Alamos, NM
Margie Root   Los Alamos, NM
I lost a black Patagonia R1 pullover with no hood at this wall today (April 14) at the base of 3 am crack. If anyone sees it can you shoot me a message at rocknrunmargie at gmail dot com or on here please? Thank you! Apr 14, 2016
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
5.10+ because how burly and sustained the route is Nov 5, 2017
D. Scott Clark
D. Scott Clark   Boulder
Equally as good, but harder than both Incredible Hand Crack and Supercrack Jan 4, 2018