Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 15,336 total · 68/month
Shared By: Andrew Wellman on Mar 8, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - In Effect Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This short, right leaning lieback is the climb immediatly right of Coyne Crack. It starts out fingers and gets progressively smaller as you get higher. The tactic is definitely climb fast, the rests really suck. About 1/3 height is a foothold to place gear off, but doesn't really give you a good rest. Continue climbing above and place yellow aliens from strenuous liebacks before the crack pinches down to tips. You could fit in a blue alien up high, but its really strenuous to place. Just before the crux, the final moves trying to stand up to the anchor, is a really poor, wrongly sloping foothold to maybe rest or place pro on, but it feels super tenuous. The crux move involves using spaced out fingerlocks and a sloping ledge to mantel on. After just reading what I wrote, I would say its not quite as hairy as I made it sound, just remember to keep your feet really high in opposition and move fast.

Protection

One .75 camalot in a pod down low, two .5 camalots, one or two yellow aliens, and then possibly one green alien, and one blue alien, if you can stop and place them.

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