Type: Trad
FA: Chip Chace and Steve Levin, 1978
Page Views: 6,585 total · 31/month
Shared By: Dave Chenault on Nov 27, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


255 Opinions

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Located approx. 80 feet right of IHC, this route is a slightly left-leaning splitter on the right wall of a dihedral. It intersectes the corner crack about 30 feet from the bolt anchors. It starts as tight hands, negotiates two awesome offwidth pods, pulls through some sustained wide hands, and meets the dihedral, which is good to tight hands. A steller climb that goes on and on, you never want it to stop.

Protection

A full 30 metre pitch. Bring 3-5 each 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5 Friends, and 2 4 Friends.
If you bury a leg in one of the pods, you can get a great no-hands rest (you won't be pumped at this point, but it's a great pose.) Slightly awkward down low through the wider stuff... Nice route. I think I used a #4 camalot. Nov 30, 2001
Not too bad if you have big mitts. Oct 29, 2008
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
  5.10
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
  5.10
First Ascent from Bjornstad, 1988:

Chip Chace and Steve Levin, 1978 Oct 22, 2009
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
how the heck does this not get 4 stars! great route and a nice warmup. the pods may be a little tricky but the route offers plenty of rest steps. Nov 9, 2009
Clip the chains and continue out around the roof to a 2 bolt belay stance. Continue up the flare with hands but shortly going to off fingers. A long pitch finishes with fingers to a 2 bolt anchor. 5.11+ Rap the route.
FA. Karl Kelley Sep 4, 2014
A nice break from the relentlessly mechanical climbing nearby. Great variety in a long, aesthetic pitch. There's something for everyone here but the business is on big hands. Mar 23, 2015
Miguel D
SLC
Miguel D   SLC
Might be somewhere around 28 meters, you can definitely top rope it with a 60m rope Jul 29, 2015
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10
as already said mostly big to cupped hands, nice to have 2) #4 for pods, and save some #.5, .75, #1 for the top. May 2, 2016