All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek

Critic's Choice Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Critic's Choice

L › R R › L A › Z

	(Brutus of) Wyde Choice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
	Acronymph T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Barley Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	BBC from Cleveland (Big Bold Climbers) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Belly Full of Bad Berries T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Blue Square T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Break a Leg T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Bunny Slope T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Critic's Choice T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Critical Mass T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Cult Classic T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Ed's World T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Ed's World (Left Variation) T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Fingerling T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Fist of Fury T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Fisticuffs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Just Because T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Knees without honor T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Life.... T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Mr. Bad News T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Mr. Critical T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	New Life or Second Life T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Pinch It T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Refractory Period T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Ruby Flame T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Sabrina T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Second Choice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Sgt. Fish Scale T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Short and Stout T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Sugar Plum T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Thin and Tipsy T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Tom's Thumb T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Uncut T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Unknown T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Unknown T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Unknown Chimney S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Unknown Wide Corner Route T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Unnamed 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Unnamed 5.10 Flare T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Unnamed Right facing finger corner T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Wrench Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Yes I Am T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

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Explore this area in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	6,023 ft	1,836 m
GPS:	38.03075, -109.60173 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	87,624 total · 382/month
Shared By:	camhead on Mar 13, 2007 · Updates
Admins:	slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! Details

2025 Raptor Avoidance Areas. blm.gov/announcement/blm-as…

Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…

For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.

Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

There are a few hard testpieces here, as well as some easier stuff. This cliff does not have quite the concentration of routes that other Creek crags do, and there seems to be quite a bit of loose and fresh rockfall here, but it is still worth a visit. Morning sun, afternoon shade in the summer.

Getting There

This is the second large canyon/valley on the right as you drive up toward Beef Basin from Bridger Jack area. Right after a cattle guard (and before you hit the turnoff to Way Rambo/Pistol Whipped area), take the high clearance track to the right. Parking is at the end of this road.

Approach Trails

There are two main approach trails from the parking lot. Look up at the cliff and find the very obvious Belly Full of Bad Berries arch. The left approach lands you right near the bottom of Bunny Slope and the right approach trail lands you near Short and Stout.

Left - head on the trail that leaves the lot going deeper into the back of the canyon, walk the wash for a little bit until you see a cairn in a fork that heads right towards the talus, follow the well marked trail to the base of Bunny Slope.

Right - head on the trail that leaves the lot and heads in a short wash directly towards the talus to the right of Belly. Follow a relatively well marked trail to the base of Short and Stout.

42 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Critic's Choice

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 331 ● Bunny Slope Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 132 ● Ed's World Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 33 ● Unnamed 5.10 Flare Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 8 ● Cult Classic Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 7 ● Knees without honor Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 5 ● Unknown Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c 36 ● BBC from Cleveland (Big Bold Cli… Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c 12 ● Tom's Thumb Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 27 ● Second Choice Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 28 ● Ruby Flame Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 7 ● Break a Leg Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 14 ● Acronymph Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 6 ● Unknown Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b 76 ● Critic's Choice Trad
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c 34 ● Belly Full of Bad Berries Trad