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Routes in Critic's Choice

(Brutus of) Wyde Choice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Acronymph T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
BBC from Cleveland T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Barley Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Belly Full of Bad Berries T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Break a Leg T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bunny Slope T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Critic's Choice T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Critical Mass T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cult Classic T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ed's World T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fist of Fury T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fisticuffs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hitch Hiker's Thumb, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0
Just Because T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Knees without honor T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Life.... T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Bad News T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Mr. Critical T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
New Life or Second Life T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ruby Flame T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sabrina T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Second Choice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sgt. Fish Scale T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Short and Stout T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Thin and Tipsy T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Uncut T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown Wide Corner Route T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wrench Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Elevation: 6,023 ft
GPS: 38.028, -109.609 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 28,321 total · 203/month
Shared By: camhead on Mar 13, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

There are a few hard testpieces here, as well as some easier stuff. This cliff does not have quite the concentration of routes that other Creek crags do, and there seems to be quite a bit of loose and fresh rockfall here, but it is still worth a visit. Morning sun, afternoon shade in the summer.

Getting There

This is the second large canyon/valley on the right as you drive up toward Beef Basin from Bridger Jack area. Right after a cattle guard (and before you hit the turnoff to Way Rambo/Pistol Whipped area), take the high clearance track to the right. Parking is at the end of this road.

29 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Critic's Choice

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 133
Bunny Slope
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Sabrina
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 65
Ed's World
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Barley Route
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
Wrench Route
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 9
BBC from Cleveland
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 3
Fisticuffs
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
Uncut
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 12
Second Choice
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 13
Ruby Flame
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 4
Break a Leg
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 5
Critical Mass
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 42
Critic's Choice
Trad
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 19
Belly Full of Bad Berries
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bunny Slope
 133
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Sabrina
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Ed's World
 65
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Barley Route
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Wrench Route
 6
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
BBC from Cleveland
 9
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Fisticuffs
 3
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Uncut
 3
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Second Choice
 12
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Ruby Flame
 13
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Break a Leg
 4
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Critical Mass
 5
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Critic's Choice
 42
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
Belly Full of Bad Berries
 19
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Trad
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Photos

Alex Honnold sending Belly Full of Bad Berries Aug 29, 2009
Philip Straub
The Valley
Philip Straub   The Valley
WARNING!!!

On 11/25/2017 there was a major rockfall event on the offwidth corner to the right of Ruby Flame. The route is not on this page but has a plaque indicating that it is called Critical Mass. There is a picture of it on this main page. The rock was easily pulled off by a very light member of our party who was seconding the climb. It was about the size of a golf cart and fell from very near the chains. Fortunately there were no serious injuries but everything at the base of the climb was destroyed.

THERE IS ANOTHER BLOCK WAITING TO FALL which was being partially supported by the boulders which fell on us. If this block falls anyone belaying this climb, Ruby Flame or the OW system to the right of the corner (plaqued: Uncut, 11-) would be killed. Avoid this part of the cliff! Nov 26, 2017

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