Critic's Choice Rock Climbing
Elevation: | 6,023 ft | 1,836 m |
GPS: |
38.03075, -109.60173 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 87,253 total · 401/month | |
Shared By: | camhead on Mar 13, 2007 · Updates | |
Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas (LIFTED 9/10/2024)- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Getting There
This is the second large canyon/valley on the right as you drive up toward Beef Basin from Bridger Jack area. Right after a cattle guard (and before you hit the turnoff to Way Rambo/Pistol Whipped area), take the high clearance track to the right. Parking is at the end of this road.
Approach Trails
There are two main approach trails from the parking lot. Look up at the cliff and find the very obvious Belly Full of Bad Berries arch. The left approach lands you right near the bottom of Bunny Slope and the right approach trail lands you near Short and Stout.
Left - head on the trail that leaves the lot going deeper into the back of the canyon, walk the wash for a little bit until you see a cairn in a fork that heads right towards the talus, follow the well marked trail to the base of Bunny Slope.
Right - head on the trail that leaves the lot and heads in a short wash directly towards the talus to the right of Belly. Follow a relatively well marked trail to the base of Short and Stout.
Classic Climbing Routes at Critic's Choice
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