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Dove Creek Wall Rock Climbing
Routes in Dove Creek Wall
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99 Cent Tamale T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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High Country Elevator T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Just Lie It Back T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mustache Lady T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mustache Lady's Sister, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Superette Crack T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Welcome To Dove Creek T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
| GPS: |
38.07106, -109.59543 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 12,764 total · 112/month |
| Shared By: | Luke Mehall on Oct 5, 2015 · Updates |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
2025 Raptor Avoidance Areas. blm.gov/announcement/blm-as…
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
A new shady wall for The Creek!
Located in between the Optimator and Petrified Hornet walls, this crag has a nice variety of grades, with some modern classics, including a 5.9 called 99 Cent Tamale, that would make an ideal first lead for an aspiring Creek climber.
One of the coolest features about this wall is that you can climb here in the shade, and then move over to Optimator when it goes into the shade later in the mid-afternoon.
Gear beta for these climbs is more on the conservative side, and is in Camalots, with notes if in between sizes from Wild Country/Metolius are useful.
Located in between the Optimator and Petrified Hornet walls, this crag has a nice variety of grades, with some modern classics, including a 5.9 called 99 Cent Tamale, that would make an ideal first lead for an aspiring Creek climber.
One of the coolest features about this wall is that you can climb here in the shade, and then move over to Optimator when it goes into the shade later in the mid-afternoon.
Gear beta for these climbs is more on the conservative side, and is in Camalots, with notes if in between sizes from Wild Country/Metolius are useful.
Getting There
The Dove Creek Wall is best approached from the Optimator Wall. Hike down from Soul Fire and look for cairns that will lead you to the wall. The first climb you'll see is "Just Lie It Back" a moderate right facing dihedral off-width, marked by a plaque.
Watch out for poison ivy around the vicinity of the first couple climbs on the trail. We've removed it, but it grows back quickly and creeps up on the trail.
The wall can also be approached from Petrified Hornet, but the trail connecting the two is less established.
Watch out for poison ivy around the vicinity of the first couple climbs on the trail. We've removed it, but it grows back quickly and creeps up on the trail.
The wall can also be approached from Petrified Hornet, but the trail connecting the two is less established.
Classic Climbing Routes at Dove Creek Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
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Guidebooks (8)
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