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Dove Creek Wall

Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek
Warning Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

A new shady wall for The Creek!

Located in between the Optimator and Petrified Hornet walls, this crag has a nice variety of grades, with some modern classics, including a 5.9 called 99 Cent Tamale, that would make an ideal first lead for an aspiring Creek climber.

One of the coolest features about this wall is that you can climb here in the shade, and then move over to Optimator when it goes into the shade later in the mid-afternoon.

Gear beta for these climbs is more on the conservative side, and is in Camalots, with notes if in between sizes from Wild Country/Metolius are useful.

Getting There

The Dove Creek Wall is best approached from the Optimator Wall. Hike down from Soul Fire and look for cairns that will lead you to the wall. The first climb you'll see is "Just Lie It Back" a moderate right facing dihedral off-width, marked by a plaque.

Watch out for poison ivy around the vicinity of the first couple climbs on the trail. We've removed it, but it grows back quickly and creeps up on the trail.

The wall can also be approached from Petrified Hornet, but the trail connecting the two is less established.

Routes from Left to Right

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The beautiful Superette Crack in the spring.
[Hide Photo] The beautiful Superette Crack in the spring.
First ascent action with Tim Foulkes on the High Country Elevator, one of the best routes at the Dove Creek Wall.
[Hide Photo] First ascent action with Tim Foulkes on the High Country Elevator, one of the best routes at the Dove Creek Wall.
Tim and Keith working on the trail.
[Hide Photo] Tim and Keith working on the trail.
Crow bars - a necessity for new routing in Indian Creek.
[Hide Photo] Crow bars - a necessity for new routing in Indian Creek.
first ascent bromance
[Hide Photo] first ascent bromance
The Dove Creek Wall.
[Hide Photo] The Dove Creek Wall.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
[Hide Comment] Right on Luke! I walked this wall awhile back and remember a few lines sticking out, thanks for getting them done! Oct 5, 2015
Luke Mehall
Durango, Colorado
[Hide Comment] Thanks BJ. A whole ton of people worked to get this wall to where its at now...hit me up if you want to get on some new routes in The Creek! Oct 6, 2015
Devin Fin
Parts unknown
[Hide Comment] Looks great Luke. Can't waight to get a chance to climb some of your new routes. Thank you an yer crew for all the hard work that it truely takes to develop a new wall.. Oct 7, 2015
[Hide Comment] Thanks for the work all. looking forward to checking some of these lines out. Nov 22, 2015