Mountain Project Logo

Routes in South Sixshooter

South Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Face Angling Crack? T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
South Face Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
South Face Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
South Face, Even more right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Elevation: 5,852 ft
GPS: 38.121, -109.652 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 47,066 total · 236/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Mar 25, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

In addition to all the buttresses, Indian Creek has two solitary towers sitting on talus cones. South Sixshooter is the smaller of the two(the one on the left when viewed from the Bridger Jack area), and has the easiest good route in Indian Creek, and maybe the easiest tower summit route in the desert.

Getting There

Continue past Bridger Jack mesa, and drive past the two Sixshooter towers. Turn left on the road in to Davis Canyon, which is signed and leads to Canyonlands. The trailhead is several miles up the 4WD road - high clearance or a complete disregard for your car are required to make it all the way. Park in the dry creekbed at the easiest looking point of the low mesa - you will drive all the way around the mesa and park as the road starts to head away from it. A cairned trail exists on the mesa that is worth finding to make the approach easier and to protect the cryptobiotic soil. Plan on an hour or so uphill walk to get to the base of the tower.

6 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: South Sixshooter Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at South Sixshooter

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 234
South Face
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 19
South Face Right
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 5
South Face Direct
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 57
South Face Angling Crack?
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
South Face
 234
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
South Face Right
 19
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
South Face Direct
 5
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
South Face Angling Crack?
 57
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
More Classic Climbs in South Sixshooter »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
Some additional approach beta: whether driving or hiking (like us), follow Davis Canyon road until the signed turn-off for Lavender Canyon on the left (a mile or so up the big wash). From there, take nice cow paths that head off right, until below the south part of the lower talus cone. There are some cairns on large white rocks here that mark a good spot to head up and left to some more cairns, that lead to a break in the "white rim" cliffs--from there, a nice walk up a small drainage leads to a fairly obvious cairned trail up the final talus slope.

There are many beautiful cracks on the south face, only a couple of which seem to be in any guidebooks. Consider doing the prominent 5.9 corner up the center of the face--it appears to offer reasonable and much better climbing than the standard South Face route.

If you have a sixty meter rope, do not bring two ropes!! From the big block with slings below the left (west) summit, you can reach the ground with a few feet to spare, with a sixty.

The view is not quite as good as from the North Sixshooter, but this is a very worthwile and spectacular summit IMHO. Mar 28, 2003
Angrene  
FYI: wanted to let anyone heading out to climb this tower that I pulled one bolt out of the top anchors as I was heading off to rappel. It was quite loose to begin with in hollow sounding rock - if you can imagine that fun sound in sandstone. This was on Mon 11/17/2008. Sorry - please be prepared for this. Nov 19, 2008
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
One of the two Half inchers with chain? Something messed with it if so. There were two other bolts up there that I did not incorporate into the anchor. Was it one of them? I hope it was one of them that changed its mind. Nov 19, 2008
Angrene  
Unfortunately, yes. There were only two bolts up there, and the one closest to the edge just popped right out. I was trying not to pull up too much, but it still came out. It was not unscrewed, just loose & the rock sounded pretty hollow around where it was. I definitely think it was a rock issue.The other bolt was really solid though.

Sorry it happened to your generous work. Nov 19, 2008
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
OK Gang, Angie was there so we know how it is. All I can figure is the the thunderstorms this summer let a huge amount of water into the hole and that maybe the anchor took a lightning strike... I can only tell you all was solid last spring (as numerous ascents since have proven).
This is to be expected sometimes in bolts placed vertically in sandstone. I am currently laid up and thus cannot get up there to fix it for at least a few weeks. If someone is going up there I will provide the equipment for replacement. Just get in touch with me
One other option is that there have been a couple people complaining about the upgraded anchors... maybe they tried to remove them. Nov 19, 2008
Jeremy Werlin
Cedaredge, CO
Jeremy Werlin   Cedaredge, CO
Summit bolts all good as of 3/13/10. Mar 14, 2010
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
A few bits of info:

According to the sign, it's 8 miles off 211 to the trailhead. Stay left until you get to the Lavender Canyon sign. The Davis Canyon approach takes you much further to the east than one might think. The 1st canyon deadends near North Six Shooter. The 4WD road is worst near the start (~0.5mi in). You have to have a NPS permit to camp at the trailhead. A Honda Pilot had enough clearance. May 6, 2011
Chris Wenker
Santa Fe
Chris Wenker   Santa Fe
@Leo:
I don't think that's correct. It's not 8 miles to the 'trailhead' for SSSP; it's only ca. 3 miles in from the pavement to the start of the approach hike. Maybe you're thinking of the end of the Davis Cyn road, at the NPS boundary? That's more like 7-8 miles.
And, there's no requirement for a NPS permit to camp at the SSSP 'trailhead'. That's located on BLM land (although part of the road in the wash does cross private land). Jun 1, 2011
DaveT
Albuquerque
DaveT   Albuquerque
Here's what I've got for driving beta to help avoid future approach wobblers like mine. From the Davis Canyon turnoff from the pavement, go .8 miles to a gate (was not posted but may be private land?), staying right at a fork part of the way in. Go 1 mile more to gain the big wash. Another 1.4 miles up wash, passing Lavender Canyon split on the left, to a right fork in the wash. Take this right fork for another .7 miles to the start of the foot trail marked with some stones placed on edge arranged in a square. Can see big cairns up on the ridge and small ones down low. This was per last weekend. Those mileages are approx and there may be another way to go around the gate, but didn't look like a problem to me. May 29, 2012
Tried to follow the previous directions, but there are too many road splits. The key is to head consistently to the left (E) of S. Six Shooter while avoiding roads which head West to N. Six Shooter or that canyon between them. Then drive as far around the mesa as you can. Looks like many people stop too soon. We drove most of the way around it. The road ended and the trail was right there. Perhaps there are other trails, but the one we found went pretty much straight up with lots of cairns.

We used a 70m rope and had more than 10m left after rapping off the upper ledge rings (first ledge w/ anchors from the summit). There is a lower ledge with a rappel station, but you don't need a separate stop. Nov 29, 2012
bikesrockswaves
Tucson, Arizona
bikesrockswaves   Tucson, Arizona
Quick comments from 3/19/14 ascent. Drive that road ALL the way around the tower until it ends (once in the wash, keep bearing right, staying right into smaller fork of wash). To the end. Drove it in Subaru, no problem, but anything less would be hard.
#2 - if 5.9/.10+ climber, definitely do the cracks right of the south face route start. Excellent. The right of the two .9 dihedrals is excellent and makes for a superb bypass and pretty direct line to right summit.
#3 - all anchors looked lovely; tightened one hanger up a bunch on main summit, but felt solid. Mar 26, 2014
Optimistic
New Paltz
Optimistic   New Paltz
As of March 16th, 2015 the lower of the two anchor bolts on the southwest summit can be turned a bit in its hole. I didn't try to pull it out. Unfortunately I didn't have the knowledge or equipment to address this. Mar 18, 2015
As of November 2015 both the lower and the summit anchors have been fixed/replaced. We spent a lot of time and equipment (Thanks ASCA) repairing these anchors and we are confident they are solid and will last. Enjoy! Dec 15, 2015
B-Slim
San Jose
B-Slim   San Jose
GPS coordinates for the parking
38.113142, -109.638833 or 38°06'47.3"N 109°38'19.8"W
You can see it via google maps as well goo.gl/maps/u2t8ZCbYrTx.

Apr 17, 2016
Ryan M  
Climbed this tower on 11/23/17 and was really bummed to see new graffiti on the petroglyph near the first pitch and poop with lots of TP in a crack at the top of the chimney.
As climbers we should hold ourselves to higher standards, please use a wag bag to carry out your poop and do not leave your own marks on any rock art! Love this amazing place without loving it to death! Nov 24, 2017
Chris Wenker
Santa Fe
Chris Wenker   Santa Fe
Ryan M wrote:
"Climbed this tower on 11/23/17 and was really bummed to see new graffiti on the petroglyph near the first pitch"

Graffiti on an archaeological resource such as a petroglyph on US government land is, in fact, a federal crime. If this recent report is true, and anyone sees a social media post claiming responsibility for the vandalism, please report it to the BLM. Dec 1, 2017
Found helmet last weekend 3/10/18. Email a description and we’ll get it back to you.
Laureleigh14@yahoo.com Mar 17, 2018
mtmtb -  
Hey Guys --
This may seem like a dumb question, but is there sport climbing on South Sixshooter? It stats trad only, but in a lot of the photos, I'm seeing anchors?

Thanks Jun 14, 2018
Jay Eggleston
Denver
Jay Eggleston   Denver
“Mark T Charlotte, NC
Hey Guys --
This may seem like a dumb question, but is there sport climbing on South Sixshooter? It stats trad only, but in a lot of the photos, I'm seeing anchors? “

Yes, anchors to get down. Jun 14, 2018

More About South Sixshooter

Printer-Friendly
What's New
Guidebooks (8)

All Photos Within South Sixshooter (62)

Most Popular · Newest · Random