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Routes in South Sixshooter

South Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Face Angling Crack? T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
South Face Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
South Face Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unkown
Page Views: 4,090 total, 34/month
Shared By: Greg D on Feb 9, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


54 Opinions

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is the beautiful left angling crack up the south face of South Six Shooter. It begins as a wide crack with some stemming options (doesn't feel like an offwidth). Then, angle left as it tapers from big hands down to fingers. You can do this as one pitch to a rap anchor after 90 feet. Or take it to the top in two pitches joining the last pitch of the "regular" South Face route to the top and do two single rope rappels with a 60 meter rope back down the route to the ground.

Location

This is the beautiful left angling crack up the south face of South
Six Shooter. Unmistakable. See photo.

Protection

Double set of Camalots from .4 to 3. Only one 3 is needed.
Scott
  5.10
Scott  
  5.10
Sweet pitch. Hard mantel type move at the top of the finger crack to gain the ledge. Took a few big whips on this move Apr 25, 2017
Trevor.
Boise, ID
Trevor.   Boise, ID
This is definitely the way to go if you're going to climb the South Six and are comfortable leading 5.10. Nov 29, 2015
VRP
Denver, CO
VRP   Denver, CO
Fun pitch if you're already up there. Crux was pulling into the slot after the fingers. Watch or extend placements in the finger crack with the softer rock. I whipped pulling into the slot and had a yellow alien pull out-pretty exciting with that little ledge below. Mar 30, 2015
I highly suggest this line as apposed to the more popular 5.6 Mar 27, 2015
Robes
Leavenworth, Washington
  5.10b
Robes   Leavenworth, Washington
  5.10b
Good fingers with a slightly awkward crux. Makes the rest of the route kinda dull. Apr 18, 2014
Matt Hoffmann
Squamish
 
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
 
Really enjoyed this start. Went up this so we wouldn't have to wait as we had multiple parties and it sounds a lot better than the 5.6 start. Great pro the whole way and a fun finger section. May 14, 2013
I climbed this crack with my friend Ben in about 1993. We started up the off width and left-angling crack for about 30' or so and then lowered off, placing two drilled pins to protect a variation start on a short arete to the left of the off width. I remember the climbing on the variation as interesting and about 5.9 or 5.10. I'm not sure if the pins are still there or not, as I haven't been back since. If the gear is still there, it's worth doing. Mar 4, 2012
Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
Joe Stern   Moab, Utah
There's also a discussion of this variation on the South Face page, including a few photos of the pitch that I posted. Feb 22, 2008