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Routes in South Sixshooter
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South Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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South Face Angling Crack? T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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South Face Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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South Face Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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South Face, Even more right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unnamed offwidth T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Grade II |
| FA: | Bill Roos, Burnham Ardnt, and Denver Collins September, 1969 |
| Page Views: | 38,492 total · 172/month |
| Shared By: | Andrew Gram on Mar 22, 2002 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
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Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - In Effect
Details
No toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Seasonal Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas in effect March 1, 2020 for full details visit: blm.gov/press-release/blm-a…
Beginning March 1-late July, the public will be asked to avoid climbing or hiking in areas where birds are known to nest. The climbing areas that are historically known to have nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as:
June 11, 2020 avoidance update:
The Wall, Reservoir Wall, Cat Wall, and the multiple Meat Walls.
BLM biologists will continue monitoring efforts throughout the 2020 season, and the BLM will notify the public once young birds have fledged. Trailhead notices and maps will be updated when the avoidance areas are lifted. The BLM expects the avoidance areas to be lifted prior to the beginning of the fall climbing season.
Signs will also be posted at the main trailheads.
Contact Jason Byrd at the BLM with questions: jbyrd@blm.gov
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Seasonal Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas in effect March 1, 2020 for full details visit: blm.gov/press-release/blm-a…
Beginning March 1-late July, the public will be asked to avoid climbing or hiking in areas where birds are known to nest. The climbing areas that are historically known to have nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as:
June 11, 2020 avoidance update:
The Wall, Reservoir Wall, Cat Wall, and the multiple Meat Walls.
BLM biologists will continue monitoring efforts throughout the 2020 season, and the BLM will notify the public once young birds have fledged. Trailhead notices and maps will be updated when the avoidance areas are lifted. The BLM expects the avoidance areas to be lifted prior to the beginning of the fall climbing season.
Signs will also be posted at the main trailheads.
Contact Jason Byrd at the BLM with questions: jbyrd@blm.gov
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description
The route climbs the left side of the face first reached from the trail. The start begins where the ground starts sloping downhill sharply.
Pitch 1 - Climb broken rock to a fun chimney. Belay on the big ledge at the top of the chimney. No fixed anchors, but there is a good chockstone to sling and placements for large cams(watch for hollow and loose rock). 90 feet, 5.6
Pitch 2 - Climb the low angle slot to a ledge system. Walk along the ledge system, and climb up to a higher ledge with rappel slings around a block. An excellent harder variation is to climb the steep clean thin hands crack to the highest ledge system. 80 feet, 5.4
Pitch 3 - Continue on the ledge to a crack. Climb up to a hard for 5.6 mantle to a ledge. Clip the bolt and climb to the summit tower. 50 feet, 5.6
A single rope rap from the summit leads back to the top of pitch 2. A double rope rap from there gets to the ground. You may want to move the knot over the edge to help with pulling the rope.
Pitch 1 - Climb broken rock to a fun chimney. Belay on the big ledge at the top of the chimney. No fixed anchors, but there is a good chockstone to sling and placements for large cams(watch for hollow and loose rock). 90 feet, 5.6
Pitch 2 - Climb the low angle slot to a ledge system. Walk along the ledge system, and climb up to a higher ledge with rappel slings around a block. An excellent harder variation is to climb the steep clean thin hands crack to the highest ledge system. 80 feet, 5.4
Pitch 3 - Continue on the ledge to a crack. Climb up to a hard for 5.6 mantle to a ledge. Clip the bolt and climb to the summit tower. 50 feet, 5.6
A single rope rap from the summit leads back to the top of pitch 2. A double rope rap from there gets to the ground. You may want to move the knot over the edge to help with pulling the rope.
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