Type: Trad, Grade II
FA: Bill Roos, Burnham Ardnt, and Denver Collins September, 1969
Page Views: 38,492 total · 172/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Mar 22, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - In Effect Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The route climbs the left side of the face first reached from the trail. The start begins where the ground starts sloping downhill sharply.

Pitch 1 - Climb broken rock to a fun chimney. Belay on the big ledge at the top of the chimney. No fixed anchors, but there is a good chockstone to sling and placements for large cams(watch for hollow and loose rock). 90 feet, 5.6

Pitch 2 - Climb the low angle slot to a ledge system. Walk along the ledge system, and climb up to a higher ledge with rappel slings around a block. An excellent harder variation is to climb the steep clean thin hands crack to the highest ledge system. 80 feet, 5.4

Pitch 3 - Continue on the ledge to a crack. Climb up to a hard for 5.6 mantle to a ledge. Clip the bolt and climb to the summit tower. 50 feet, 5.6

A single rope rap from the summit leads back to the top of pitch 2. A double rope rap from there gets to the ground. You may want to move the knot over the edge to help with pulling the rope.

Protection

A light rack of cams is all you need. A big cam is useful to back up the belay chockstone on pitch one, but not necessary.

Photos