Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,117 total · 56/month
Shared By: Chris Wenker on Dec 1, 2017
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This line has been mentioned previously on MP (see this photo), but I thought it deserved its own entry.
When facing the peak's south face, this line ascends a weakness below the left side of the right summit. Just 15 feet to the right of the deep stem-box that contains the South Face Right route, follow a line of paired weaknesses up the cracked face, left of the huge square-bottomed hanging flake, over an out-thrust block, to a huge ledge on the right with a bolted rap station on a boulder. It's about 80 ft to here. Fun and sustained climbing! Better than the standard route, which is often jammed up anyway.
From this belay, take one or two more leads, heading up and left through the broken blocky corner to gain the notch between the twin summits and thence to the summit of your choice.
If anyone knows of FA or actual route name info, let me know and I will amend this description.

Location

Rapping with a single 70 works from the East summit to the bolted block on the ledge and then to the ground works fine. Doing that with a single 60 hasn't been tested by this reporter, but I have a suspicion that it's probably good; **(the issue is if a 60 reaches from the east summit to the bolted block).... Please report back if you know.

Protection

Doubles suffice. Nothing big.

Photos

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