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Routes in Donnelly Canyon

5.10 Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ansaid Tower T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Binou's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chocolate Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crack Just to Left of Drainpipe, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dos Hermanos T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Drainpipe T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Elephant Man T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fuel Injected Hardbody T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Generic Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Half Man, Half Alligator Shark T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
JARNI ZVRAT-KY T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Let 'er Buck S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mr. Peanut T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Naked and Dead, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Naked and the Dead Variation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ocean Negro T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Owl Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rainbow Sign T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sister Skywalker T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Sleeve of Wizard T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Thing, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Twitterpated T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (L of Dos Hermanos) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown AKA Reclamation T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown Pod Climb. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Violently Happy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Waiting Line, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

As you stand in the major parking area wondering if you'll be able to find a warm-up with no parties camped on it at the Super Crack, Donnelly, Battle of the Bulge cluster, look northwest. You can't miss seeing the well-traveled splitter Generic Crack. This is the most prominent feature on the Donnelly Canyon wall. Donnelly Canyon is home to several moderate climbs and consequently, hordes of gumbies. However, this is Indian Creek and there are several good lines on this wall.

Another lesser know attraction of Donnelly Canyon is its acoustics. After a day of posing at either Super Crack Buttress or DC, you may find yourself enjoying a beer in the parking lot while you spray. When you shut-up long enough to belch, be sure to aim in the direction of Generic Crack. If you have any talent at all, then your mating call will be well amplified as it echoes and resonates out of the canyon. To witness this awe-inspiring feat alone is worth the drive to the Creek.

Getting There

Look for the major parking lot on the right about 4 miles or so past Newspaper Rock. The wall for Donnelly is the one on the west that is more or less perpendicular to the road.

30 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Donnelly Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 561
Binou's Crack
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 681
Chocolate Corner
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 741
Generic Crack
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 357
Elephant Man
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 46
The Thing
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 172
The Naked and Dead
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 50
5.10 Corner
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 108
Drainpipe
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 45
The Crack Just to Left of Drainpipe
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 60
Unknown 5.10+
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 117
Mr. Peanut
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 67
Naked and the Dead Variation
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 146
Dos Hermanos
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
 39
Fuel Injected Hardbody
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 25
Let 'er Buck
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Binou's Crack
 561
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Chocolate Corner
 681
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Generic Crack
 741
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Elephant Man
 357
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Thing
 46
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Naked and Dead
 172
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
5.10 Corner
 50
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Drainpipe
 108
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
The Crack Just to Left of D…
 45
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Unknown 5.10+
 60
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Mr. Peanut
 117
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Naked and the Dead Variation
 67
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Dos Hermanos
 146
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Fuel Injected Hardbody
 39
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad
Let 'er Buck
 25
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Donnelly Canyon »

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Alexander Nees
Grand Junction, CO
Alexander Nees   Grand Junction, CO
Can anyone provide information about the good-looking tight-hands (?) crack that is a bit left of Binou's Crack? It's in the back of a tight flare and ends under a roof. Maybe 80', with a modern-looking chain anchor?

EDIT: thanks for the info Devin. Maybe I'll get a chance to do this one soon; I'll post it up here if I do. Feb 6, 2012
slim    
yeah, i seem to remember thinking 10c or so. Apr 2, 2012
Alex Haeger
Boulder, CO
Alex Haeger   Boulder, CO
I was in the creek for the first time last weekend and was unsure about where the Donnelly Canyon cliffs start based on descriptions here and in the guidebook. After running into a second group in the same predicament, I figured it would be good to post here some more info. The Donnelly Canyon cliff line can be seen from the parking lot it shares with supercrack. From the parking lot, take the trail on the left, opposite of the toilets, and work your way to the cliffs that start right away on the left. Generic Crack is the first giant semi-worn splitter you see. Don't hike way back into the canyon unless you're looking for some obscure lines! Nov 3, 2015
Charlie Hartman
Salt Lake City, UT
Charlie Hartman   Salt Lake City, UT
If you grabbed a Nalgene that didn't belong to you on Thanksgiving Day, I would really like to get that back! Nov 27, 2017
I found a BD #1 C4 at the base of generic crack on 3/15. Message me with a description of its identifying markings and we can find a way to get it back to you. Until then, thank you mystery climber for being so forgetful. Mar 17, 2018
ctmeg Twohig
Middletown, CT
ctmeg Twohig   Middletown, CT
Found a Black Diamond Camalot C3 at the base of The Naked and Dead at Donnelly. If its yours, tell me the size and how its marked and I'll mail it back to you. Cheers! Apr 20, 2018

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