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Donnelly Canyon Rock Climbing
Routes in Donnelly Canyon
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5.10 Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ansaid Tower T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Binou's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chocolate Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Crack Just to Left of Drainpipe, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Dad Bod T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dos Hermanos T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Drainpipe T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Elephant Man T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fuel Injected Hardbody T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Generic Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Half Man, Half Alligator Shark T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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JARNI ZVRAT-KY T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Let 'er Buck S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mr. Peanut T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Naked and Dead, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Naked and the Dead Variation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Ocean Negro T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Owl Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rainbow Sign T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sister Skywalker T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Sleeve of Wizard T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Thing, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Twitterpated T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown (L of Dos Hermanos) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown 5.10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown AKA Reclamation T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Unknown Pod Climb. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Violently Happy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Waiting Line, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Elevation: | 5,914 ft |
| GPS: | 38.04, -109.544 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 107,734 total · 485/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on May 12, 2002 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - In Effect
Details
No toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Seasonal Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas in effect March 1, 2020 for full details visit: blm.gov/press-release/blm-a…
Beginning March 1-late July, the public will be asked to avoid climbing or hiking in areas where birds are known to nest. The climbing areas that are historically known to have nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as:
June 11, 2020 avoidance update:
The Wall, Reservoir Wall, Cat Wall, and the multiple Meat Walls.
BLM biologists will continue monitoring efforts throughout the 2020 season, and the BLM will notify the public once young birds have fledged. Trailhead notices and maps will be updated when the avoidance areas are lifted. The BLM expects the avoidance areas to be lifted prior to the beginning of the fall climbing season.
Signs will also be posted at the main trailheads.
Contact Jason Byrd at the BLM with questions: jbyrd@blm.gov
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Seasonal Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas in effect March 1, 2020 for full details visit: blm.gov/press-release/blm-a…
Beginning March 1-late July, the public will be asked to avoid climbing or hiking in areas where birds are known to nest. The climbing areas that are historically known to have nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as:
June 11, 2020 avoidance update:
The Wall, Reservoir Wall, Cat Wall, and the multiple Meat Walls.
BLM biologists will continue monitoring efforts throughout the 2020 season, and the BLM will notify the public once young birds have fledged. Trailhead notices and maps will be updated when the avoidance areas are lifted. The BLM expects the avoidance areas to be lifted prior to the beginning of the fall climbing season.
Signs will also be posted at the main trailheads.
Contact Jason Byrd at the BLM with questions: jbyrd@blm.gov
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description
As you stand in the major parking area wondering if you'll be able to find a warm-up with no parties camped on it at the Super Crack, Donnelly, Battle of the Bulge cluster, look northwest. You can't miss seeing the well-traveled splitter Generic Crack. This is the most prominent feature on the Donnelly Canyon wall. Donnelly Canyon is home to several moderate climbs and consequently, hordes of gumbies. However, this is Indian Creek and there are several good lines on this wall.
Another lesser know attraction of Donnelly Canyon is its acoustics. After a day of posing at either Super Crack Buttress or DC, you may find yourself enjoying a beer in the parking lot while you spray. When you shut-up long enough to belch, be sure to aim in the direction of Generic Crack. If you have any talent at all, then your mating call will be well amplified as it echoes and resonates out of the canyon. To witness this awe-inspiring feat alone is worth the drive to the Creek.
Another lesser know attraction of Donnelly Canyon is its acoustics. After a day of posing at either Super Crack Buttress or DC, you may find yourself enjoying a beer in the parking lot while you spray. When you shut-up long enough to belch, be sure to aim in the direction of Generic Crack. If you have any talent at all, then your mating call will be well amplified as it echoes and resonates out of the canyon. To witness this awe-inspiring feat alone is worth the drive to the Creek.
Classic Climbing Routes at Donnelly Canyon
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
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Guidebooks (12)
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