Type: Trad, 110 ft (33 m)
GPS: 38.0398, -109.5436
FA: Steve Quinlan 1982
Page Views: 493 total · 13/month
Shared By: Alex Temus on Oct 23, 2022
Admins: slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher

You & This Route


7 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

A large, and varied left-facing flake that doesn't get nearly enough traffic for how good it is!

The route starts on a thin hand crack with l some face features that allow for easy stemming before you reach the technical crux about 25 feet up where you navigate the first, somewhat overhung, off-width. Then beautiful, overhung hand jams get you over a bulge into easier off-width moves. The route continues on mostly big hands but goes to thin fingers near the chains.

The crux for me was just the endurance to not peel off the easier upper half after fighting through the first off-width moves. The guidebook called it 10+, but 5.11 seems more appropriate for a route with overhung off-width moves.

70m rope required, or two ropes.

Location Suggest change

Left-facing crack varying in size from hands to tight chimney.

30 ft right of Chocolate Corner, and 15 ft right of Elephant Man.

Protection Suggest change

Black totem to #6 Camalot. Triples for #1-#3, doubles for #4&#5. I think I used 1 of everything else. The route moves left and right and is quite long, so be sure to extend gear.

Photos

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