Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Routes in Donnelly Canyon
|
5.10 Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Ansaid Tower T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Binou's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Chocolate Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Crack Just to Left of Drainpipe, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Dad Bod T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Dos Hermanos T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Drainpipe T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Dust to Dusk T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Elephant Ear AKA Fish Taco T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Elephant Man T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Fuel Injected Hardbody T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
|
|
Generic Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Half Shark-Alligator, Half Man T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
|
|
Jarni Zvrat-Ky (lower part of Dust to Dusk) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Let 'er Buck S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
|
|
Mr. Peanut T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Naked and Dead, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Naked and the Dead Variation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Ocean Negro T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
|
|
Owl Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Rainbow Sign T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Shank Face T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
|
|
Sister Skywalker T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
|
|
Sleeve of Wizard T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Thing, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Twitterpated T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Unknown (L of Dos Hermanos) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Unknown 5.10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Unknown AKA Reclamation T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Unknown Pod Climb. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Violently Happy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Waiting Line, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m) |
| GPS: | 38.0398, -109.5436 |
| FA: | Nate Sydnor, Aaron Livingston and Joe Stern (first full lead) |
| Page Views: | 1,111 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Nate Sydnor on Dec 1, 2019 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
I've looked at this for years as the logical extension to Fuel Injected. The corner above the existing anchor continues to a great ledge way up there. Once you've achieved the Hard Bod you can graduate to the Dad Bod! The rock quality is great and the climbing likely isn't harder than 10+ or so, but you may be a bit gassed and have to tap the extra fuel cells. We considered many name options including the famous Jackson Browne song "Running on Empty." The ledge at the top of the route is amazing, with very beautiful walls flanking you at the perfect stance. Wish I had a photo.
The route was put up in what may be one of the longest yo-yos of all time. Aaron got the rope up on Fuel Injected, then I TRed up that with the tagline and some gear and led on. Hauling the drill up with a Gri-Gri on my belay loop with no pro and crouching on the ledge was one of my more interesting first ascent experiences. Bulldogs drill fast but they sure aren't light.
At the end of the day Joe led the whole route for the full trad dad experience, narrowly pulling off Fuel Injected and then heroically persevering on. It was the conclusion to an amazing and classic Creek day with a good crew. This was also the last day I climbed with my late good friend Nolan Smythe. Rest in peace brother. You were one of the best and most genuine of the new generation of climbers. Respect.
0 Comments