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Routes in Donnelly Canyon

5.10 Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ansaid Tower T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Binou's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chocolate Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crack Just to Left of Drainpipe, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dos Hermanos T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Drainpipe T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Elephant Man T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fuel Injected Hardbody T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Generic Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Half Man, Half Alligator Shark T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
JARNI ZVRAT-KY T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Let 'er Buck S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mr. Peanut T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Naked and Dead, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Naked and the Dead Variation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ocean Negro T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Owl Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rainbow Sign T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sister Skywalker T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Sleeve of Wizard T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Thing, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Twitterpated T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 5.10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown AKA Reclamation T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown Pod Climb. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Violently Happy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,860 total · 14/month
Shared By: Darin Lang on Oct 12, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

From the parking lot, go across the drainage and then past the first trail (to Generic Crack). The next trail will take you up to the Chocolate Corner area. Hike past Chocolate Corner to a large inset chimney with two routes inside. This is the route on the right side of the chimney, ascending a slightly overhanging thin hands to finger crack in an acute dihedral/slot to a anchor composed of two drilled pins. About 70 feet.

Start up the seemingly frictionless thin-hands slot (with occasionally tolerable hand jams) to a pod, where you can place the #3 Camalot and milk a "rest". The 25 feet from the pod to the anchors is the crux, with acceptable and sometimes excellent fingerlocks. Hardmen and hardwomen will just jam straight up to the anchors, while the rest of us softies can use an inelegant combination of stemming and chimney technique to supplement the finger jams.Three stars anywhere else, but two stars at most for Indian Creek.

Protection

3 #1 Camalots, 1 #3 Camalot, double Aliens from yellow to orange. Heck, you could might even be able to use some larger stoppers on this if you wanted to hang around and fiddle them in.
Well played, Mr. Mehall. Dec 7, 2013
Thanks for the work and thanks to ASCA. Dec 3, 2013
Luke Mehall
Durango, Colorado
Luke Mehall   Durango, Colorado
We drilled a new anchor over the weekend on this thing. Used fatty 1/2 inch. bolts provided by the ASCA. Dec 3, 2013
Another party pulled the piton out with hands this weekend. Putting it back in and hoping for the best us certainly not the only answer. A: replace it. B: leave a precious cam as backup (more precious than life?)

Anyway, for the time being THIS ROUTE IS NOT LEADABLE WITHOUT A BOLT KIT.

Top roping it off the left Drainpipe route is probably more fun, anyway.

Several anchors in Donnelly are double pitons ( maybe 30+ years old) with chains and due for a replacement including the left Drainpipe.

Be suspicious of old drilled pins in Wingate. Oct 7, 2013
Lou Hibbard
Eagan, MN
Lou Hibbard   Eagan, MN
Odd how I had a good left knee cam and almost a no hands rest much of the way yet still managed to be pumped at the top. Oct 30, 2011
Larry
SoAZ
Larry   SoAZ
Well, LahDa, those drilled angles went in at a time when they were much preferred to 1/4" split-shaft compression bolts, which were granite standard. Feel free to upgrade the hardware. Just do a good job! Jul 18, 2011
LahDaBudz
moab, ut
  5.10+
LahDaBudz   moab, ut
  5.10+
not sandstone robin......drilled angles IN sandstone. why cant we all use bolts?

by the way guys dranpipe is THE LEFT route. where the water runs down the cliff. that is why its the DRAINPIPE! Mar 10, 2011
-robin-  
those nailed in angles for anchors scared me, one of them pulled out when I was cleaning the tat off the anchor, I guess all you can do is slide it back in and hope for the best, ah sandstone. Mar 8, 2011
Alexander Nees
Grand Junction, CO
  5.10+
Alexander Nees   Grand Junction, CO
  5.10+
This thing ate me alive... I got a knee gobie right through my pants from kneebar-ing my way most of the distance! Certainly seemed harder for me than other 10s at the Creek. I'd call it 10+ for the water polish, awkwardness, and bad rattly fingers at the top.

And yes, I'm pretty sure this route is the Drainpipe. That's what Bloom says, it squares with his description, and also this crack is definitely the primary drainage channel, not the one to the left (personal observation!). Apr 29, 2010
Chris M
Seattle, WA
  5.10
Chris M   Seattle, WA
  5.10
Pumpy and fun. Harder for the grade than other 10s at the creek IMO. Nov 19, 2009
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Got an eyeful of sand on this one, ouch. Not a classic, but different and challenging, and stays cool in there. The unnamed to the left is longer and better. Sep 21, 2009
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
 
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
 
A different kind of climb for the creek, less about jamming and more about finaglry. This was a proud lead for me back in the day and I am sure it still spits out climbers today. Jul 9, 2007
Good pitch; reminiscent of the tight dihedral pitch on the NE Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock. Seems like the knee-cam maneuver is necessary to keep the grade at 5.10, unless you have small paws.

Shaded and cool. Nov 5, 2001
Darin Lang  
 
Either way ... both routes are pretty fun and 5.10ish, although IMO the left route is a bit harder than the right one due to OW start and the relentless off-finger jams (I hate this size). Nov 1, 2001
Ben F
Benfield, Kolorado
Ben F   Benfield, Kolorado
I'll check my guides, but I thought Drainpipe was the left route. Nov 1, 2001