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Routes in Donnelly Canyon

5.10 Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ansaid Tower T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Binou's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chocolate Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crack Just to Left of Drainpipe, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dos Hermanos T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Drainpipe T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Elephant Man T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fuel Injected Hardbody T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Generic Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Half Man, Half Alligator Shark T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
JARNI ZVRAT-KY T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Let 'er Buck S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mr. Peanut T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Naked and Dead, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Naked and the Dead Variation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ocean Negro T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Owl Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rainbow Sign T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sister Skywalker T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Sleeve of Wizard T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Thing, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Twitterpated T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 5.10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown AKA Reclamation T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown Pod Climb. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Violently Happy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad
FA: Jimmy Dunn, Brian Delaney 1976
Page Views: 50,936 total · 256/month
Shared By: Mike Sofranko on Oct 30, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

As described in the Donnelly Canyon intro, this route is quite obvious. On my first visit to the area, I said, "That must be Supercrack." I was wrong, but this is one striking line.

From the parking lot, cross the drainage and head up canyon about 50 yards, then follow an obvious and well built trail up and left to the bottom of the route.

The first pitch is 120 feet long so don't forget the trail line. The first 25 feet or so are the awkward crux of the route, then you're in hand jam heaven. The crack does widen slightly near the anchor. The #4 Camalot is for the obvious pod at the bottom, you could get by without it with a big-hands piece a little lower. Have fun, and don't forget to keep your weight on your feet, no matter how much they hurt.

The route has a wider second pitch that I've never seen anyone climb.

Protection

9 #2.5 Friends or #2 Camalots, 3 #3 Friends, 1 #3.5 Friend, 1 #4 Camalot trail line

Photos

Dan Evans
Phoenix, AZ
  5.10a/b
Dan Evans   Phoenix, AZ
  5.10a/b
This may be "overrated" for Indian Creek, but it is certainly deserving of 3 stars. It is sustained 10a with distinct cruxes both entering and exiting each pod. We did this as a warm up, which was a nice little wake up. Definitely a grunt, but the majority of the climb is solid #2 jams. To sew it up, bring (1) #1 for the start, (10) #2's, (4) #3's, and (1) #4. Not sure what the description means by "trail line" but a 70 m rope works just fine for lowering/top rope without having to pull any shenanigans. Dec 9, 2017
Ben Mottinger

  5.10a
Ben Mottinger    
  5.10a
Really good jams and a nice long route. Excellent. Just as good as IHC IMHO.

Since this was my first lead at IC, I will have to "inflate" the grade as well, but when the hands got a little wider at the end, I was getting pumped (for my smaller hands) so I definitely say 5.10. The "technical crux" pod didn't seem that bad. This was really an endurance route for me. Oct 7, 2002
Dan St. John
Castle Rock
Dan St. John   Castle Rock
I would say the route is 5.10- based on my relative experience. I am not ashamed to inflate, I mearly wish to communicate to other climbers what I feel the route should be rated. Good foot work and you will not have toe jam completly. I used 7x2, 3, 4 Camalot on the route. Sep 24, 2002
Matthew Bernstein  
  5.10-
What an overhyped poop route. Please waste your time on this so that worthwhile routes like mr. peanut and unnamed 10+ (i'm not going to specify which one) are open for my homies and I. Apr 16, 2016
Matt Enlow
Wyoming
Matt Enlow   Wyoming
Be sure to tie a knot on the end of your rope here -- watched a climber take a fall after being lowered off his rope back in November. Like others have said, you can walk up and right as the belayer to get your climber back on the ground.

We climbed it happily with a 70m. Jan 2, 2014
Matt Hoffmann
Squamish
 
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
 
Fun route. Great hand jams for me the whole way (Yellow c4). Placed 7 yellows, 2 blues (pods) and 1 red at the start.

Overall I think this is a great route to do if it's your first time in the creek, there are 2 great rests on a long route. Gives you plenty of time to get uses to how the jams feel there. Super fun jamming!

We rapped with a 70. Apr 20, 2012
Alexander Nees
Grand Junction, CO
  5.10-
Alexander Nees   Grand Junction, CO
  5.10-
For what it's worth, Generic Crack was rated 5.10- back in 1988 in Bjornstad's original "Desert Rock" guidebook. This was maybe the first published guide to the Creek (?), so the rating at least has some basis in history. Mar 9, 2011
I would have to say that #3 Friends are the best piece for the crack. #2 BD aren't bad, but they can be a little too tipped our for my taste in soft rock. I agree with the #4 BD and 1-2 #3 BD sized pieces. Great Climb. Oct 2, 2009
Bad Sock Puppet
  5.10-
Bad Sock Puppet  
  5.10-
The crack is better than it looks when you first reach the bottom. Higher up past the first pod the crack quickly becomes a beautiful hand crack for most of the rest of the climb. The crux is navigating the two pods, with the bottom pod being slightly harder. Right before the chains the crack widens up, so don't rush it and go flying. Overall a very awesome line. May 23, 2009
Evan Belknap
Placitas, NM
 
Evan Belknap   Placitas, NM
 
Are there chains above the second pitch? Dec 16, 2008
Someone forgot to add Brian Delaney to the FA along with jimmy. Dec 5, 2008
Braxtron
...
  5.10-
Braxtron   ...
  5.10-
Over-rated. May 5, 2008
JoshuaTreeRunner David
Los Angeles
 
JoshuaTreeRunner David   Los Angeles
 
Good climb but i didnt like the escape/entrance to 2 of the pods. Nov 26, 2007
John Bradford
Yellowstone National Park
  5.10a
John Bradford   Yellowstone National Park
  5.10a
Have to agree with the above. Make sure you take enough gear. Nothing wrong with hanging if you need to rest. Rating is very dependent on hand size in my opinion. I would say no move is harder that a 9, but the sustained nature and length make this a 10a Oct 22, 2007
Terrible advice from Gaar about protecting soft rock. The standard desert recommendation of "a piece every bodylength" is a much sounder way to go. Apr 23, 2007
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Dont take too much time placing gear....Just place a piece and go!!!...The faster you go the less it hurts...I placed 3 yellow camolots, one metloious equivilent, and a 2.5 friend (I think), Whatever it was I only placed 5 pieces, and hauled ass up it Apr 23, 2007
Does anyone know anything about the second pitch?? Aug 14, 2006
Danny Inman
Arvada
  5.9+
Danny Inman   Arvada
  5.9+
This is a wonderful route in my opinion. The crux for me is the first 25 feet up to and out of the first off-width pod. From there you have about 80 feet of perfect hand jamming to the bolts. Mar 25, 2005
Just for the record, Jimmy Dunn and I did the first ascent in '76. We never named it, it seemed odd to name a crack climb when you were surrounded by thousands more. I lead the first pitch and Jimmy lead through to the top on what sounds like the pitch "no one ever does". I remember it being a strenuous OW that Jimmy flew through in his usual style. It's funny reading the gear list for these climbs. I think I placed 3 hexes on the first pitch and Jimmy may have placed a couple on his lead. I remember discussing with him that if he fell and his pieces pulled that we would both be heading for the desert floor. Lousy name, but it's fun to see it get some recognition. May 4, 2004
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Funny enough, I am also not a big fan. Ive repeated a lot of routes at this wall, but not bothered with this one. It's a little flaring and rounded as compared to the classic Indian Creek splitter. I found it to be less than 'great' for the creek- not a destination. There are plenty of better climbs around. Nov 12, 2003
I hate this grovel fest about as much as I hate Supercrack. Easy, grovelly, and painful. I'll never understand why people line up for this one, when there are a hundred other "hand cracks" of far superior quality. Nov 11, 2003
George Bell
Boulder, CO
 
George Bell   Boulder, CO
 
I remember starting this lead with seven #2 Camalots, and laughing at this. I also had quite a few 2.5 Friends. But by the time I got to the anchor, they were all gone! Apr 1, 2002
I will probably get flamed a bit for my comments, but I also hope this will help other first-timers in Indian Creek: This climb looked doable enough for us, but turned out to be a substantial undertaking. The length, and its hunger for #2 Camalot sized gear ended up forcing us to climb until we almost ran out of gear, set an anchor with the last 3 pieces, lower, take outher gear out, switch leads, go up again, etc. Climbing it that way trippled its length, and can NOT be recommended. Fun climb, but make sure you have the gear. I would recommend Chocolate Corner, or Twin Cracks as a more doable alternative (shorter - less gear) Apr 1, 2002
This route can actually be easily toproped with a single 60 meter rope. As the belayer lowers the climber (and the climber nears the ground), the belayer can walk up the hill to the (climber's) right. After walking 10-15 feet up the hill the climber will reach the ground. Remember to tie a knot in the end of the rope of course. Nov 30, 2001
Bill brings up a good point in his comment above, and also his comment to Supercrack.

New climbers to IC should really take the ratings with a grain of salt. Don't worry about them too much, especially if you are above or below average in size. It's all hand and foot size dependent - ratings can differ by a number grade or more depending on the climber.

For instance, Chocolate Corner is desperate for me. I onsighted it (barely), but I haven't led it successfully since then. That climb actually has a restraining order against me, I simply can't handle it.

I remember one tiny woman (who needed to fist jam IHC) unwilling to give Battle of the Bulge a try cause it was supposedly 5.11. It would have been good hands for her and a cruise.

Nov 29, 2001
I'll add to the grade inflation, but saying this route is 5.10. So much of this depends on the type of climber and very much on the size of his/her hands, but in relation to the other 5.10's in this area, it is 5.10. Many consider it harder than the Incredible Hand Crack, which is given the 5.10c rating.

This brings up an interesting point with this area. Many of the climbs are not given a letter grade - just 5.10 or 5.10+. I was initially annoyed by this because I am very solid on 10a, but quite desperate on 10d, but I think it makes sense. Whether a route is an easy 5.10 or a hard 5.10 is almost completely dependent on your hand size and your endurance level.

Generic Crack requires much more endurance than the Incredible Hand Crack and while the crux wide pod on GC is not as hard as the overhanging section on IHC, it is more technical. I'd say the routes are very equal in difficulty. Nov 29, 2001
With a 70 metre cord, this route can be toproped with ease. Great climb. Nov 28, 2001
Ben F
Benfield, Kolorado
Ben F   Benfield, Kolorado
You can use a 60m rope if your belayer walks uphill (to the right)to lower you (through your own biners). When they second and rap, they can veer that way and safely reach the ground. Thanks for not inflating the grade of this climb like some do. Oct 31, 2001

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