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Routes in Donnelly Canyon

5.10 Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ansaid Tower T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Binou's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chocolate Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crack Just to Left of Drainpipe, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dos Hermanos T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Drainpipe T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Elephant Man T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fuel Injected Hardbody T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Generic Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Half Man, Half Alligator Shark T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
JARNI ZVRAT-KY T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Let 'er Buck S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mr. Peanut T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Naked and Dead, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Naked and the Dead Variation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ocean Negro T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Owl Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rainbow Sign T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sister Skywalker T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Sleeve of Wizard T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Thing, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Twitterpated T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 5.10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown AKA Reclamation T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown Pod Climb. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Violently Happy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,628 total, 9/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 10, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route is a reasonably good Donelly climb and seems to be free more often than others. It is just as long and good as 'Generic Crack,' but less generic. The size changes throughout and the angle weaves back and forward, throug a few hanging corners and flaring pods.

Fing a long climb left of the ever-popular Chocolate corner area- continue left past Mr Peanut and toward Generic Crack to near the bolted arete of Let Er Buck. Just right of there (if memory serves- I just did it again on Easter of 04) is a splitter off of the ground with rounded edges. About 10M up is the first pod, which is also the crux.

A rack of cams should include a few down to an inch, with at least two each #2 and #3.5 and probably three each #2.5 and #3. That should do well, but if you love plugging tons of gear, consider taking more. Take a few slings too, as the pods protect deep in back.

A 70M rope will get you down, a 60 won't without trickery.

Protection

A rack of cams from from 1"-3.5" Heavy on the 2-3". Plus one #4 camalot if convienient.

Photos

Derek Field
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10+
Derek Field   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10+
Holy moley this thing is burly! I used the kitchen sink. Lots of different gear placements possible. Feb 27, 2017
S.Mckinna
Cañon City, CO
  5.10c
S.Mckinna   Cañon City, CO
  5.10c
This is a good quality climb. A 60 meter rope works with no trickery. It should be sorted between 5.10 Corner and Mr. Peanut. I used camalots: 1 #5, 4-5 #2, 2 #3, and 2 yellow aliens. Webbing anchor on SMC hangers. Oct 31, 2012
ben graham
Boulder/Denver CO
ben graham   Boulder/Denver CO
Wear a long sleave shirt and pants as this crack eats up elbow and knee skin; i learned this the hard way. Oct 10, 2009
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.10
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.10
For clarification, this route is to the right of generic crack if your looking at the wall, not to the left. It's just right of Binou's Crack and the bolted arete, the obvious hand crack with a large pod about 15 feet off the ground. Also, we didn't have trouble lowering off of a 60m, but it was an extremely stretchy rope. knot your ends and be conscious of the length.

This was one of my favorite routes we did at the creek, I thought the climbing was a lot of fun and much trickier than a lot of the cracks. The jams were deep in the crack and it was fun trying to figure out how to keep from getting sucked into this bad boy. It's definitely one you can love to hate, and full value at nearly 100'. Mar 30, 2009
Danny Inman
Arvada
  5.10+
Danny Inman   Arvada
  5.10+
Good route. Judging from the sand this thing does not get climbed nearly as often as its neighbors. Nov 3, 2006