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Routes in Donnelly Canyon

5.10 Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ansaid Tower T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Binou's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chocolate Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crack Just to Left of Drainpipe, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dos Hermanos T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Drainpipe T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Elephant Man T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fuel Injected Hardbody T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Generic Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Half Man, Half Alligator Shark T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
JARNI ZVRAT-KY T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Let 'er Buck S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mr. Peanut T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Naked and Dead, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Naked and the Dead Variation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ocean Negro T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Owl Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rainbow Sign T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sister Skywalker T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Sleeve of Wizard T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Thing, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Twitterpated T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 5.10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown AKA Reclamation T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown Pod Climb. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Violently Happy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 27,057 total, 132/month
Shared By: Jason Wells on Mar 7, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Another popular moderate classic. Hike along the main Donnelly buttress north from Generic, past Binou's, and look for a beautiful thin-hands crack in a dark right-facing corner. Trample (as lightly as possible) up from the trail to the base. Start with #1 Camalot size until it pinches down slightly (#2 Friend), grunt (or panic depending on your style) through the thinness to a nice ledge on the left. Continue up the widening (starts #2 Camalot size, ends #3 Camalot size) crack to the anchors on the right.

If your hands are small this will probably be a cruise. The rest of us probably will say there's a move or two of 9+.

Protection

2-3 #1 Camalots, #2 Friend or #.75 Camalot (Friend is better for the size), a couple #2 to #3 Camalots.
Kate Zimm
Denver, CO
Kate Zimm   Denver, CO
Found 2 quickdraws on top of this route on Friday 11/6/15. PM me if you think they might be yours and I'll try to get them back to you. Nov 9, 2015
Optimistic
New Paltz
Optimistic   New Paltz
If this one is a challenging grade for you, I think you'll be psyched to have at least one more #1 and #2 than the suggested rack above. I know I would have been! Mar 11, 2015
cesky12
Edwards, Colorado
 
cesky12   Edwards, Colorado
 
Thin for my hands, almost pooped myself straining Jul 23, 2014
Franz N
Mass.
 
Franz N   Mass.
 
Short and sweet, good to eat. One of my favorites leads so far. #1 Camalots going straight up, with a couple larger and smaller pieces to place. Apr 15, 2013
Matt Hoffmann
Squamish
  5.9+
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
  5.9+
My first route in the creek. Felt pretty damn hard for a 5.9, Generic, IHC and Blue Sun all felt quite a bit easier. Some tight hands (red c4) and smaller. A couple of good hand jams and quite a few face holds to stem and rest on. Powered through for the flash but, this was pretty humbling for my first attempt at creek climbing. Apr 20, 2012
Dan Brayack
Marmet, WV
Dan Brayack   Marmet, WV
I swear this was harder than Mr. Peanut for me... Sep 29, 2010
Your female climbers partners should really like this one since the crack is a little small for man-hands. This one turned out to be harder for me than elephant man. Moral of the story is everything is size dependent. May 23, 2009
camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
also, re: Ocean Negro, you can get off of it with one 70m rope. It is a bit interesting rapping from the top of pitch 3 to the top of pitch 2; you need some directionals since it is so steep. You can get from the top of pitch two to the ground with one 70m rope, barely. Or you could just do a huge double rope rappel with two 60's or 70's to the ground from the very top.

awesome line. Nov 15, 2007
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
  5.8
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
  5.8
A fantastic easier route with impeccable rock. Perfect for smaller hands (red camalot size). Short. Nov 14, 2006
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
This is a short pitch, but I once saw someone place over 15 pieces on it, thus proving that no matter how big a rack you bring to Indian Creek you can still run out of gear! Mar 30, 2004
The upper pitches are called Ocean Negro and go at 5.12a and 5.12c. The 5.12a is technical and reasonable, the 5.12c is just plain hard. Nov 18, 2003
Ben Mottinger

  5.9+
Ben Mottinger    
  5.9+
Great route, but I wish it was a little longer.

I could get pretty decent jams with my hands. Oct 7, 2002
Dan St. John
Castle Rock
Dan St. John   Castle Rock
I thought this rout was harder than 5.9. As always the grade depends on hand size. I find a #3 camolt a good jam so #1 is quite insecure. 5.10- Sep 24, 2002
Wes Allen
Lexington, KY
Wes Allen   Lexington, KY
Nice route. Great stemming toward the top. The upper pitches look very cool, but way to hard for me. Mar 26, 2002
Joe Keyser
Scottsdale, AZ
Joe Keyser   Scottsdale, AZ
This route was pretty thin for my meat hooks. But, short and sweet! Nov 19, 2001