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Routes in Donnelly Canyon
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5.10 Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ansaid Tower T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Binou's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chocolate Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Crack Just to Left of Drainpipe, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Dad Bod T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dos Hermanos T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Drainpipe T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Dust to Dusk T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Elephant Ear AKA Fish Taco T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Elephant Man T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fuel Injected Hardbody T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Generic Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Half Shark-Alligator, Half Man T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Jarni Zvrat-Ky (lower part of Dust to Dusk) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Let 'er Buck S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Mr. Peanut T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Naked and Dead, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Naked and the Dead Variation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Ocean Negro T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Owl Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rainbow Sign T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Shank Face T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Sister Skywalker T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Sleeve of Wizard T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Thing, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Twitterpated T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown (L of Dos Hermanos) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown 5.10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown AKA Reclamation T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Unknown Pod Climb. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Violently Happy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Waiting Line, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 85 ft (26 m) |
| GPS: | 38.0398, -109.5436 |
| FA: | Jay Anderson |
| Page Views: | 1,493 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Aaron Martinuzzi on Jan 20, 2010 · Updates |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! Raptor Closures!
Details
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
Much like it's much thinner sister route, Sister Skywalker, Rainbow Sign ascends the sandy white section of wall between Generic Crack and the Elephant's Trunk. Much of the route is characterized by solid OW climbing, but, unfortunately, the start and crux finish are marred by sandy, friable rock.
Begin by ascending the sandy pillar (seems very loose) at the base of the climb by means of a handcrack on the right side. A #2 Camalot could fit here, but the moves are 5.8 at most and a fall onto a cam would likely shear the pillar right off the wall. Mount the pillar, dust yourself off, and ponder your fate as you take in the 5" crack rising above you. Ascend the offwidth (protects with #5 C4, bring two to leapfrog or walk, or bring 5 or 6 to sew it up) utilizing the occasional facehold for feet or to cop a rest. Unfortunately, your ascent will likely be more difficult than mine, as I broke a half-dozen or so holds off on the way up. The crack is sustained, but a couple decent rests can be had by way of faceholds, or a nice thigh/knee jam if you're the right size. Even with the features available, I think the OW section clocks in a solid 10/10+. About 70 feet up, the crack begins to narrow from fists to thin hands in a span of about 15 feet. Grab a nice hand jam in a pod, shake out, and launch into a sequence of powerful lieback moves up the now-very-thin (00 and 0 TCU/Mastercam) crack, which leads into the 11+ crux, a sequence of tough moves from a good sidepull onto sandy slopers and a couple loose holds to gain a stance tall enough to clip the anchors. Whew!
Location
Approach as for Generic Crack and walk along the base of the wall, passing the large, left facing corner where Unknown AKA Reclamation resides. About 50 feet past the corner, you'll pass beneath a blocky roof beneath a seam, and about 10 feet right of this is Sister Skywalker. Rainbow Sign ascends the striking offwidth about 10 feet right of Sister Skywalker.
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