Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Steve Petro and Kelly Moore - April 15, 1987
Page Views: 3,951 total · 29/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Oct 20, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


39 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This high quality stemming and liebacking problem is located in an attractive, varnished left-facing corner just left of the much more popular Generic Crack.

Stem the first 20 feet on tiny gear (00 TCU size) to a welcome 0.75 Camalot placement. Above this is a bolt which protects ten feet of crux climbing up to some solid fingers liebacking. Save a rattley fingers piece for the run to the anchor.

Protection

A very small cam or even a wire, lots of blue and yellow TCU sized pieces and a couple slightly larger pieces.

Photos

Jimmy Farrell
Lexington, KY
  5.12-
Jimmy Farrell   Lexington, KY
  5.12-
Definitely small gear. Definitely not PG-13. It's safe and fun. Do it. Dec 5, 2008
David Trippett
Squamish, BC
  5.12a/b
David Trippett   Squamish, BC
  5.12a/b
Sucks up small cams. Very safe. Apr 30, 2009
JamesLucas Lucas
Boulder, CO
JamesLucas Lucas   Boulder, CO
So hard...someone bolt the entire line please Apr 13, 2012
J. Hickok
Salida, CO
J. Hickok   Salida, CO
Shameful to suggest - even jokingly! Oct 8, 2012
GabeO
New Haven, CT
5.12b/c PG13
GabeO   New Haven, CT
5.12b/c PG13
If you've got fat fingers, don't even think about it unless you're a 5.12+ climber. Mar 27, 2013
ben jammin
Moab, UT
  5.12a/b
ben jammin   Moab, UT
  5.12a/b
I used the bolt... I'm so ashamed. OK, not really. I have smaller fingers but still thought this was harder than Unbelievable at Broken Tooth which has a similar boulder problem/liebacking style. Apr 2, 2013
Toast with Butter
Tempe, AZ
  5.12b
Toast with Butter   Tempe, AZ
  5.12b
What the first guy said, also I plugged lots of .3 size. If you like stemming you will love this Apr 2, 2016
grog m  
Where do I get this fuel to inject in to my soft body to make it hard? Jun 24, 2017
Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
 
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
 
get on this if you need to boost confidence after disco machine gun. much easier and definitely safe. Nov 21, 2017
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.12-
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.12-
To echo what Brian said; this is a much safer route than DMG. I ripped the entire upper 1/4 skin of my ring finger when I fell and my finger dragged on the cam lobes of a red C3 on DMG last month... Fuel Injected Hardbody is waaay more fun than DMG! Nov 21, 2017