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Routes in Donnelly Canyon

5.10 Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ansaid Tower T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Binou's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chocolate Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crack Just to Left of Drainpipe, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dos Hermanos T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Drainpipe T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Elephant Man T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fuel Injected Hardbody T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Generic Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Half Man, Half Alligator Shark T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
JARNI ZVRAT-KY T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Let 'er Buck S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mr. Peanut T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Naked and Dead, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Naked and the Dead Variation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ocean Negro T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Owl Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rainbow Sign T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sister Skywalker T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Sleeve of Wizard T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Thing, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Twitterpated T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 5.10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown AKA Reclamation T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown Pod Climb. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Violently Happy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad
FA: Sabine & Michel Jourdan
Page Views: 18,749 total, 96/month
Shared By: Jason Wells on Nov 2, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Classic moderate climb. Very popular. Starts in a right facing corner next to the neon sign that says "Binou's" (actually just pecked into the rock - probably by Indians). Jam the crack until it gets tiny and a nice wide crack opens on the left, take a nice rest on a great knee jam, and scoot on up to the top.

Protection

A few #1 and #.75 Camalots, maybe a #2 Camalot (be sure to take a look first, I can't really remember), and a mix of Aliens or similiar small pro at the top. Instead of the small stuff, you can use big pro for the top.
tdziedzina
Golden
  5.9
tdziedzina   Golden
  5.9
Gets a little weird at the top, you have the option to to tips jams in a corner or nestle inside the sinuous offwidth... I used both Nov 3, 2014
B. Smith
Denver, CO
 
B. Smith   Denver, CO
 
To add to the description of the gear, I used about (1) #1, (3).75s, (3).5s, (1-2).4s and maybe a .3.

This was my first Indian Creek climb and I had a lot of fun on it.

There are current three bolts at the anchor, and two of them are spinning. All look like they are in ok shape. May 27, 2014
Matt Hoffmann
Squamish
  5.8
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
  5.8
Fun second route in the Creek. Lots of places to rest and do sort of face climbing. Great introduction to get you feeling confident. Also a variety of gear to place. Apr 20, 2012
I didnt not actually climbs this route but rather a variation to it. I went straight up the crack on the left face (finger stacks to finger locks and once that closed out I transfered to the finger tip layback section on the top. I did not stem and did not use the wide crack at top. was a really fun and demanding variation. May 20, 2011
GhaMby Eagan
Heaven
  5.9
GhaMby Eagan   Heaven
  5.9
Maybe 8 to the first anchors, but solid 9 to the second, I think. Jan 12, 2007
C Miller   CA  
The FA of this was by Sabine & Michel Jourdan, who run Le Perroquet Vert, a really cool restaurant/hotel/gear store right at the Verdon Gorge. Nov 14, 2006
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
This is about as classic as it can get for the grade. Bring a few smaller pieces for the top. Unfortunate that "Binou's Crack" has been etched into the base of the wall. I guess that was before LNT practices. Nov 14, 2006
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8-
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.8-
This is an easy 8 - certainly not a 9. Fun climb and a good route for people who haven't jammed much, Mar 29, 2004
Ben Mottinger

  5.8+
Ben Mottinger    
  5.8+
Atypical route for IC, but a lot of fun.

Better than twin cracks at Supercrack Buttress, but for its grade, it's not too bad. Oct 7, 2002
This is a great leading intro to Indian Creek, but if you're a beginner, don't get to overconfident after ticking this one. Although, you can purely jam this for most of it, there are some wall features that allow for stemming and foot-outta-the-crack rests. The top will be a little more awkward if you have big fingers. Smaller hands will be able to get some good fingers in the thin crack. Doubles of the small stuff (blue, green, yellow aliens) can be useful if you're feeling nervous. Super-fun climb. Mar 25, 2002