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Sleeve of Wizard
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.4 from 7
votes
Routes in Donnelly Canyon
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5.10 Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ansaid Tower T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Binou's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chocolate Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Crack Just to Left of Drainpipe, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Dad Bod T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dos Hermanos T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Drainpipe T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Dust to Dusk T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Elephant Ear AKA Fish Taco T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Elephant Man T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fuel Injected Hardbody T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Generic Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Half Shark-Alligator, Half Man T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Jarni Zvrat-Ky (lower part of Dust to Dusk) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Let 'er Buck S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Mr. Peanut T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Naked and Dead, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Naked and the Dead Variation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Ocean Negro T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Owl Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rainbow Sign T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Shank Face T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Sister Skywalker T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Sleeve of Wizard T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Thing, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Twitterpated T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown (L of Dos Hermanos) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown 5.10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown AKA Reclamation T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Unknown Pod Climb. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Violently Happy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Waiting Line, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 105 ft (32 m) |
| GPS: | 38.0398, -109.5436 |
| FA: | Trevor Bowman, Pat Kingsbury 2/10/12 |
| Page Views: | 1,977 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Trevor Bowman on Dec 24, 2012 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more.
Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
2025 Raptor Avoidance Areas. blm.gov/announcement/blm-as…
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
A nicely varied OW-squeeze with featured rock and more face holds than typical of the Creek. Very reminiscent of Zion.
Start with a flared OW/squeeze with good hands in the back, pull out of the flare into a cups splitter, run it out up a wider chimney to a bolt, and finish with a tough squeeze section to a belay alcove. Great blue collar outing!
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