Type: Trad
FA: Les Ellison & Hooman Aprin, 1981
Page Views: 5,255 total · 25/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 13, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


From Generic Crack, walk about 60' to the left. There you will see a huge flake in a left-facing corner. This flake forms a tips-crack on the right, and a finger-to-hand crack on the left side. A double chain anchor is 35' off the ground, just above the top of the flake. A single bolt and ring are above the right hand side, to serve as a directional to protect the fingertips varaition (5.11+, TR)

P1: Climb to the top of this flake (5.9) fromt he left, with good protection and simple, but powerful moves.

P2: Climb up the corner, in agreat and solid tight-hands crack. This starts as a 2-2.5" crack for a bit, the eases up to really good hands for a few moves. After a few more moves, the climb drastically changes its nature. The corner becomes softer rock (but still safe) and turns into a "double-inset" up above. This is like having 2 aretes facing nose-to-nose with 12" in between and a chunk of rock some distance behind. The fun part may be the shenanigans you pull to achieve one no-hands rest after another, by heal-toe, knee-bar, or other odd modes, using the hollow area back in the corner for these positions. Once past the steepest part of the rock, smaller cams are more useful than large ones (1-1.5"). No OW gear is necessary.

A beginning leader may likely find the distance between a few of the pieces disconcerting when combined with the odd positions of theis route, and as a result will tunnel back in to chimney the moves. That's no fun, so let it all hang out and enjoy it!!!


A wide assortment of gear. The bottom pitch (35') protects well on a single set of cams. The second pitch (80') requires plenty of gear from 3" to 3.5" (Blue Camalots are good) Up above the overhang, where the crack appears widest, narrow gear, 1" to 1.5" can be used in a hidden-from-view crack. No O.W. gear is necessary. The upper pitch is soft rock and is flaring in spots and will produce some odd body position. Although the grade is moderate overall, I'd loathe to recommend this to a beginning leader.
Dan St. John
Castle Rock
Dan St. John   Castle Rock
I enjojed it ver much, you can run the pitches together. Sep 24, 2002
Michael Komarnitsky
Seattle, WA
Michael Komarnitsky   Seattle, WA  
Enjoyable route, note that the first pitch can be led at 5.8 or so. From there chains allow an easy rap off, or better yet, TR the 5.11d thin flake just right of it. Oct 8, 2002
Danny Inman
Danny Inman   Arvada
This is a really fun route. The second pitch is great-a little sandy towards the top. I felt just fine with gear upto 2" in the off-width section. Apr 25, 2005
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
It seems that Pitch 1, the 5.8-5.9 varied fingers/hands crack on the left side of the flake, is listed on Battle of the Bulge Buttress as the "Warm-Up" route 5.8+...correct me if I'm wrong? Nov 27, 2006
Steve Powell  
first pitch is fun Oct 3, 2007
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
imho the first pitch is pretty stiff for a 5.8. Deserves at least a plus. Think the description at the top assigning it a 9 is probably a bit closer. But of course everything is subjective. Just comparing it to say the first pitch of the Bastille which some people now rate as 8 or Reggae in Eldo for example. Quite a bit harder. Good fun pitch though! Apr 2, 2011
David Crockett
Chattanooga, TN
David Crockett   Chattanooga, TN
Second pitch is sandy May 9, 2011
Matt Hoffmann
  5.10 PG13
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
  5.10 PG13
Had fun on this one, the first pitch is kind of strange but, once you get past the first 40 feet, the twin cracks are stellar. The chimney has lots of places for gear and is pretty sandy but, well worth doing.

Do it as one pitch, lower with 70. Also, you can set up a TR on the layback 11 to the right of the first pitch.

Good fun! Apr 20, 2012
kalockwood   SLC, UT
First ascent:
Les Ellison & Hooman Aprin 1981 Feb 15, 2015
Derek Field
Derek Field   California
Outstanding pitch when linked together. P1 appears burly but it's honest 5.8. The left of the twin cracks starting P2 has some of the finest hand jamming you'll find anywhere, and the stemming gets radical at the top. Save small gear for the last 25 feet, thus eliminating any "runouts". With these babies, you don't even need to go a single body-length without a gear placement. Definitely not R rated. Feb 27, 2017
Riverside, CA
nathanael   Riverside, CA
Super fun, not R though. You can sew it up. Apr 24, 2017