Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 852 total · 7/month
Shared By: chris Kalous on Feb 16, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A 50' black corner to a choice between a 5.10 hands corner or 5.11 finger splitter. It starts off as a difficult laybacking boulder problem. I left a fixed nut because small cams take up the only holds and a pillar looms below. The nut makes it safe and solid. Then .11- finger climbing leads to a ledge that used to have a jingus two pin anchor in a splitter crack. I "replaced" the anchor, and in a fit of ruthless vandalism, moved it another 50' feet higher to where a sweet 5.10 corner and a 5.11 splitter converge. The route continues via a blocky flake system to a bolted offwidth roof at least one more pitch (I only spied all this from the ground). It appears that the FA probably aided a few more feet above the new anchor (knifeblade pin scars evident) and swung into the flake. It is possible to step left into the flake system from the top of the splitter, however. The whole route seems to have been nailed originally, as angle scars pock even the 2 inch cracks.

I'd give it three stars, but the fact that the crux is significantly harder than the rest of the route detracts a little. But the upper splitter is a classic finger stack trainer; the low angle, footers, and pods keep it from being brutal, but rattly stacks are required.

Location

This is a corner 50' to the right of Generic Crack. The book may claim it as a two pitch unknown at 5.11. The anchor was a originally lower. It is now a stout but worthy 105' route. Very clean.

Protection

.4" to hands. If you use the splitter variation, you don't need hand size pieces. Be careful lowering with a 60 meter rope- you just make it to a pillar and easy down climb. The nut mentioned above is gone (wow, what a score!), so you may want a medium to small nut for the start.

Photos

m-earle
USA
m-earle   USA
I've always wondered about this thing. Glad to see that someone finally got curious enough to get on it! Mar 9, 2009