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Routes in Donnelly Canyon

5.10 Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ansaid Tower T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Binou's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chocolate Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crack Just to Left of Drainpipe, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dos Hermanos T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Drainpipe T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Elephant Man T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fuel Injected Hardbody T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Generic Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Half Man, Half Alligator Shark T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
JARNI ZVRAT-KY T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Let 'er Buck S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mr. Peanut T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Naked and Dead, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Naked and the Dead Variation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ocean Negro T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Owl Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rainbow Sign T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sister Skywalker T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Sleeve of Wizard T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Thing, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Twitterpated T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 5.10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown AKA Reclamation T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown Pod Climb. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Violently Happy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad
FA: n/a
Page Views: 2,870 total, 15/month
Shared By: Ben F on Oct 12, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route is after Elephant man and just before Dos Hermanos. Only P1 is listed in any of the guide books and it goes at about 5.9. The first pitch splits a big block and is relatively short - probably no more than 60'. It ends at a ledge with nice Fixe anchor bolts. Belay from this ledge even if you only want to do P1 and rap when you are done.

P2 is the business. Leave the ledge on the crack to the right of the anchors. Basically, the crack gets wider towards the top, but the first 3rd of it stays pretty much in the 1.5 Friend to 1.75 Friend size. I hate these sizes. I was able to chimney for part of the upper section, which is kind of a flaring slot with gear in the back. My second, a little bit better of a climber than me, called the pitch 10+/11-. This is what I though it was, but I'll err on the side of caution, since it was a seasonal warm-up. The route only gets 2 stars because the top of P2 gets a little sandy. Remember that 2 stars in the Creek is better than 3 stars at many other places.This pitch is no longer than 80' since I lowered from the anchors (through my own biners of course!) back to the ledge on 50m doubles.

The nice things about this route are that it is not the same move over and over, but is still a crack, and the hordes were too busy with nearby chocolate corner and all the others.

Protection

For P1, bring 1.5 - 4 Friends. This pitch is short enough where you can get away with one of everything. If you want to sticth it, bring another 3.5 Friend/3 Camalot and a 4 Camalot.

P2 is the business, so bring sizes 1 to 4 Friends.Bring many 1.5 Friends and 0.75 Camalots. The anchor on this pitch sux, so if you have a drill, sink an angle or another bolt up there and add a new sling.

Photos

Optimistic
New Paltz
Optimistic   New Paltz
For p1 we found blue camalots really useful, three at least, plus a 4 camalot for the pod. Nice route. Mar 12, 2015
mountainhick
Black Hawk, CO
5.10+
mountainhick   Black Hawk, CO
5.10+
Second pitch is good though a little sandy. Solid 5.10, maybe 5.10+

Ditto, second pitch anchor is questionable, needs at least a bomber bolt added or ideally both existing bolt/hanger and weird stud replaced. Nov 7, 2013
S.Mckinna
Cañon City, CO
 
S.Mckinna   Cañon City, CO
 
Pitch 2 was the best pitch even with the wide top. I would say a stiff 5.10c. If ever climb it again I am going to add some modern hardware to the weird anchor. Mar 21, 2011
Fun start with a sustained large hands section directly after the pod. Very difficult with people with small hands and no tape. Apr 18, 2010
Tim C
Lakewood, CO
Tim C   Lakewood, CO
Pitch 2 is totally the business. Its the weird size between fingers and thin hands and I'd say the bottom half is the crux. Oct 19, 2008
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
In answer to Tony Bubb's question: No, if I read the Bloom guide correctly this isn't Elephant Ear. This is #17 (Unknown 5.9) in the guide, Elephant Ear is #16. Apr 22, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Is this possibly the route I've heard referred to as Elephant Ear? Apr 19, 2004
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
The first pitch of this taken by itself is a very nice 5.9 with one tricky move through a pod. Good to hop on while waiting for Chocolate Corner to free up. Mar 29, 2004