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Routes in Donnelly Canyon
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5.10 Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ansaid Tower T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Binou's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chocolate Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Crack Just to Left of Drainpipe, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Dad Bod T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dos Hermanos T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Drainpipe T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Dust to Dusk T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Elephant Ear AKA Fish Taco T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Elephant Man T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fuel Injected Hardbody T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Generic Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Half Shark-Alligator, Half Man T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Jarni Zvrat-Ky (lower part of Dust to Dusk) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Let 'er Buck S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Mr. Peanut T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Naked and Dead, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Naked and the Dead Variation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Ocean Negro T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Owl Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rainbow Sign T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Shank Face T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Sister Skywalker T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Sleeve of Wizard T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Thing, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Twitterpated T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown (L of Dos Hermanos) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown 5.10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown AKA Reclamation T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Unknown Pod Climb. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Violently Happy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Waiting Line, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad |
| GPS: | 38.0398, -109.5436 |
| FA: | Steve Hong |
| Page Views: | 12,615 total · 43/month |
| Shared By: | Andrew Wellman on Mar 8, 2002 · Updates |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! Raptor Closures!
Details
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
This climb is truly incredible. The greatest part is that its nice hard climbing that varies incredibly in size, its not the same move all the way to the chains. Dos Hermanos is located to the left of the Drainpipe Corner and to the right of the Elephant route and chocolate corner. Just look for the sweet looking crack busting right through the middle of the huge roof. Start by heading up a system of twin cracks. Actually the left one is a crack, but you can't really get you're feet into it cause it has an edge pointing away from you, and the right crack is really only a rail you can slap and lieback and heelhook your way up. The feet are mostly smears on the face. The first crux comes right before you hit the low angle section, trying to get your feet up on a ledge. You can rest here as long as you want, its no hands. Next, head up the steep heros handjams to a rest right under the roof. Reach out as far as you can and place a #3 camalot, then jam out the roof, keeping your feet in the crack. Depending on hand size the roof is either easy(large hands), hard(cupping, normal hands), or highly improbable(womans hands). Look for crimpers on the left side to help you pull the lip. The last move is literally the crux of the whole climb. Super good fun.
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