Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Donnelly Canyon

5.10 Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ansaid Tower T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Binou's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chocolate Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crack Just to Left of Drainpipe, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dos Hermanos T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Drainpipe T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Elephant Man T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fuel Injected Hardbody T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Generic Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Half Man, Half Alligator Shark T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
JARNI ZVRAT-KY T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Let 'er Buck S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mr. Peanut T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Naked and Dead, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Naked and the Dead Variation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ocean Negro T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Owl Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rainbow Sign T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sister Skywalker T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Sleeve of Wizard T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Thing, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Twitterpated T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 5.10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown AKA Reclamation T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown Pod Climb. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Violently Happy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad
FA: not sure
Page Views: 9,177 total · 47/month
Shared By: Andrew Wellman on Mar 8, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


134 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This climb is truly incredible. The greatest part is that its nice hard climbing that varies incredibly in size, its not the same move all the way to the chains. Dos Hermanos is located to the left of the Drainpipe Corner and to the right of the Elephant route and chocolate corner. Just look for the sweet looking crack busting right through the middle of the huge roof. Start by heading up a system of twin cracks. Actually the left one is a crack, but you can't really get you're feet into it cause it has an edge pointing away from you, and the right crack is really only a rail you can slap and lieback and heelhook your way up. The feet are mostly smears on the face. The first crux comes right before you hit the low angle section, trying to get your feet up on a ledge. You can rest here as long as you want, its no hands. Next, head up the steep heros handjams to a rest right under the roof. Reach out as far as you can and place a #3 camalot, then jam out the roof, keeping your feet in the crack. Depending on hand size the roof is either easy(large hands), hard(cupping, normal hands), or highly improbable(womans hands). Look for crimpers on the left side to help you pull the lip. The last move is literally the crux of the whole climb. Super good fun.

Protection

The first bit starts with yellow/red aliens and .5 camalots till you're through the first crux. Then throw in a .75 camalot or two. The crack leading to the roof is #2 camalots, so really you don't need any(or so they say). Through the roof two #3 camalots will get you to the chains.
I agree w/ tony. I recall that there were two anchors back in the mid 90s. I replaced them both (see above comment) because some people would use the bottom one whether I did or not, the webbing was ugly, and I generally think chopping bolts is more about ego than conservation. In a place like Donnelly, where so many people cut their teeth, and there is very little hard climbing, it doesn't seem like that big of a deal. If you have small hands, I imagine that the top could ruin your day pretty quickly. If you do decide to pull that low anchor, please consider using the chains to replace another anchor in the creek, as they were donated expressly for that purpose.

Those upper bolts should be able to be tightened since they are Rawls. Mar 5, 2008
Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
 
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
 
lower anchor chopped and upper anchor glued in. very nice, thank you. Dec 10, 2017
Chris G.
Lakewood
Chris G.   Lakewood
anyone know what route is directly to climbers left of this route? Starts off .75's and has the pretty decent size OW near the top? Apr 26, 2016
stuJ  
Fantastic Route!

As of April 2016 the lower anchors looked solid. The upper anchors were SUPER SKETCH. I tightened both bolts 3/4 turn with my fingers but did not have a wrench to really tighten. Gave a prayer to Buddah, Allah and Shiva when i set up my rappel. If anyone with the skill set and gear is in the area, please replace the upper anchors. Apr 25, 2016
Raddam6
Salt Lake
  5.11
Raddam6   Salt Lake
  5.11
Best climb I've done at the creek. No way in hell is this 5.12, sorry pussies. Jun 5, 2015
Ryan Z
  5.11d
Ryan Z  
  5.11d
The anchor is pretty dodgey. If someone bolt savvy is up there we would all appreciate the work. Oct 7, 2013
Clay McMasters
Longmont, CO
 
Clay McMasters   Longmont, CO
 
My fingers seemed to fit well in the crack Jan 11, 2013
Kevin DB
  5.11+
Kevin DB  
  5.11+
The best climb at Donnelly, one of the best line in the whole creek. Just fantastic. Jan 9, 2013
Crotch Robbins
  5.12-
Crotch Robbins  
  5.12-
Add a wrench to the rack for this one. The bolts need to be tightened again. Will try to get up there in the next week or two. Apr 24, 2012
The anchors could use some help Apr 13, 2012
Kevin Volkening
  5.11+
Kevin Volkening  
  5.11+
11+ for sure . . . a stellar route Feb 8, 2012
Scotty Nelson
Boulder
 
Scotty Nelson   Boulder
 
Recommend 1x blue TCU, 1x yellow TCU, 5x #0.5 camalots, 2x #0.75 - #3 camalots. Nov 9, 2009
Brian Adzima
San Francisco
Brian Adzima   San Francisco
Lowered a 40lb block off the route, otherwise great, how many other routes in the creek make use of multiple heel hooks Apr 28, 2009
mtoensing
Boulder
  5.12-
mtoensing   Boulder
  5.12-
Absolutely Fantastic!!! Bloom's guidebook calls it a 5.11+. Apr 27, 2009
Bolts tightened on 1/30/09. Good as new. The hangers get rotated when you clean or toprope with a directional. I believe this is why they loosened up. Begs the question, why two years of comments about loose bolts, but no wrenching? Feb 2, 2009
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Best route at Donnelly. hard for me to hang a grade on this... Bloom guide calls it .11+ which feels right to me. Crux for me was not placing an extraneous #3 high which got in my way. Placed 2 #3s from the stance at the roof and fired next go. Nov 4, 2008
Drewsky  
Upper anchor bolts were very loose as of 4/08. Jul 20, 2008
Nate Furman
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Nate Furman   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
I loved this climb! Interesting, fun, challenging, varied--maybe the best climb I've done in Indian Creek. I have bigger hands; the roof was very mellow (#3 camalots) with great feet, but the finger section down low was hard. Being able to fire in .5 camalots off a pumpy stance seems pretty key. Mar 26, 2008
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.12a
I believe I recall 2 sets present in 1995. Jan 11, 2008
I agree Greg, pretty silly to have a set of anchors before the roof. When I first climbed this route in 2002 I think there was only one bolt before the roof now there is a full blown anchor. Sorry but I have no idea why any bolts were placed below the roof there is bomber gear. Jan 8, 2008
Greg D
Here
Greg D   Here
I'm a bit confussed by the two sets of anchors. Why would anyone place a set of anchors just before the crux, or in this case, one of the crux's when an anchor already exist above? Shoud we place anchors before the crux on every climb? Perhaps we should remove the first set of anchors. Anyone know the history here? Jan 5, 2008
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
Steve Hong did the FA of this route with his brother. May 27, 2007
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11+
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11+
I thought this was a Ruckman Bros route? hence the name Dos hermanos. Correct if wrong. Great route. Apr 25, 2007
The anchors (lower and upper) got replaced last year. Thanks to Climbing Magazine's ARI. Just a note for you desert rats that still like drilled angles - I funked both the top angles with a light yank on the funkness. These were not the first ones I cleaned that way. I have NEVER been able to clean an expansion bolt this easily.

Chris Kalous Nov 8, 2006
Brian Weinstein
  5.12a
Brian Weinstein  
  5.12a
By far my favorite route in Donnelley. If you want a change from the long splitters or corners, this great route offers a whole lot of diverse climbing in 90 feet. There are new anchors below the roof, but that takes away part of the fun. Sep 22, 2006
Kirk Woerner  
 
I want, I want. Such an aesthetic line! Apr 1, 2004
For me, the last roof is undoubtedly the crux. I have skinny hands, so the jams out the roof at the end are just too big. I've climbed the lower crux clean a couple of times, but always fail to pull the last roof. Nov 21, 2003
I would have to disagree with the comment that the last move is the crux of the climb. Although a little difficult, you get a great rest before the final bulge. I think the crux is about half way up in the finger section. Nov 18, 2003
Just to set the record straight, this route is yet another creation by the Man, the Myth, the Legend... Steve Hong. Sep 29, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.12a
The Crux is lower for small-fingered people- but the move up through the roof can be hard too.
For a small man-hand size, you'll find it's just plain too small to get a fist in. The hand will go in sideways, but will be so bent that the fingers can't flex. The hand can go in the "flat" way- try folding your thumb as if to touch the base of the pinkey finger with the tip. This gave me just enough purchase to hang on, although I'd already hung on the route anyway. Mar 25, 2002