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Routes in Donnelly Canyon

5.10 Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ansaid Tower T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Binou's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chocolate Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crack Just to Left of Drainpipe, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dos Hermanos T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Drainpipe T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Elephant Man T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fuel Injected Hardbody T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Generic Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Half Man, Half Alligator Shark T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
JARNI ZVRAT-KY T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Let 'er Buck S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mr. Peanut T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Naked and Dead, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Naked and the Dead Variation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ocean Negro T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Owl Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rainbow Sign T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sister Skywalker T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Sleeve of Wizard T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Thing, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Twitterpated T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 5.10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown AKA Reclamation T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown Pod Climb. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Violently Happy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Hooman Aprin and Les Ellison, 1983
Page Views: 3,907 total, 29/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Nov 14, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Mr. Peanut lies up and approx 20' left of Chocolate Corner. There is a somewhat hidden hand crack on the right, just left of a wide crack. Start up the hand crack to a small roof (crux), which narrows down to consistent fingers to the anchor. It is rated 11+ in both the older Sharp End guidebook as well as the new Bloom book, but I would argue it's more like 10+, possibly 11-.

Protection

Mostly purple Camalots (0.5) and/or orange TCUs, with a couple smaller and larger pieces for good measure.
Optimistic
New Paltz
Optimistic   New Paltz
Good route, but for me there were many spots where purple c4s wouldn't fit, particularly above the roof. 3 or 4 purple, 4 0.4,1 0.75 and one #5 is what I'll take next time. We had fun trying to eliminate the wide crack and just use fingers and ratchets, tough!

As several have said, the 10+/11 rating is for p2, p1 is 9+/10-. Apr 5, 2016
Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
  5.10-
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
  5.10-
Loved this route but it is definitely not 5.11, and IMO, not even 10+. With decent finger crack technique it felt like easy 5.10. There are plenty of stem/chimney rests and good feet the whole way. A plentiful rack would be 1 or 2 .4's and 7 .5's. Have fun! Mar 27, 2016
Fulford
5.10+
Fulford  
5.10+
Really fun! I would say 10+ and the grade doesn't really change with hand size on this one. 7 purple camalots wouldn't be too many for this route! Apr 8, 2014
Timmamok Murphy
Durango, CO
  5.10
Timmamok Murphy   Durango, CO
  5.10
The first pitch is an easy-moderate 10. If you want to see what 10+ feels like, go climb The Wave. Can't speak to the second pitch. Oct 29, 2012
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Agree this route is more like 10+ than 11+. Still really fun. Maybe 11+ if you didn't use the off-width but that would be pretty contrived for the creek. Nov 29, 2009
This was rated 5.11+ because it's a two-pitch climb, and that's the rating of the 2nd pitch that angles up and left thru a flare.

It had nothing to do with the two cracks at the bottom. May 10, 2009
FA: Hooman Aprin and Les Ellison, 1983. Dec 5, 2008
GEAR:Fingers size gear and maybe one big piece but you could get by with some fingers size gear the whole way up.
5.11+ I was thinking more like 5.9 or 10-.
Contrived climbing is to goofy for me.
dont let 5.11 plus scare you away from this one. Maybe the easiest route I have done at Donnely canyon.
Have fun Nov 6, 2007
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
I'm not sure, Ben. Fun route whatever the grade. Oct 16, 2007
yes, but if the 11+ grade is for just the thin crack I'm not sure where you draw the line and say no more since you have to use the right crack at the bottom. Oct 16, 2007
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
"I thought after climbing this route a few years ago that the rating was for climbing the thin crack, not the one where you can wedge your a$$ in."

Oh, I guess you mean like ? That would explain it. Oct 16, 2007
I thought after climbing this route a few years ago that the rating was for climbing the thin crack, not the one where you can wedge your a$$ in.

I have climbed it both ways and if you use that wide crack on the right it is way easier(10+). But if you stick to the little crack once you hit the little roof, it is much harder(11+).

I remember there being some self restraint involved to not use the wide crack, but then again it has been awhile since i have climbed it, i could be way off. Dec 16, 2006
Michael Murphy
  5.10+
Michael Murphy  
  5.10+
I onsighted this route, so there is no way it is 5.11. I have never onsighted a 5.11. I'd give it 5.10+ at most. 4.5 Camalots protect well in the offwidth on the upper right. Nov 17, 2006
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11-
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11-
You mean that you want me to agree that it is off? Yeah, it's probably 5.11-, but not 11+. Nov 14, 2006
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
I'd be interested to hear what others feel about the rating on this one. Nov 14, 2006