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Routes in Donnelly Canyon

5.10 Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ansaid Tower T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Binou's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chocolate Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crack Just to Left of Drainpipe, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dos Hermanos T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Drainpipe T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Elephant Man T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fuel Injected Hardbody T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Generic Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Half Man, Half Alligator Shark T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
JARNI ZVRAT-KY T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Let 'er Buck S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mr. Peanut T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Naked and Dead, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Naked and the Dead Variation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ocean Negro T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Owl Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rainbow Sign T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sister Skywalker T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Sleeve of Wizard T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Thing, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Twitterpated T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 5.10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown AKA Reclamation T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown Pod Climb. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Violently Happy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,345 total, 52/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Nov 12, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Start on the side of the tower facing the canyon wall and step up to a bit of slabby rock. Move to a short, somewhat overhanging, left-facing headwall. Get over the overhang and follow the crack that trends up and right, then step around onto the west face of the tower for a last seven or eight feet of exposed climbing (a small TCU may be used to alleviate some of the exposed feeling).

Location

Ansaid Tower is a short, detached tower to the east of most of the climbs on the north side of Donnelly Canyon. The space between the tower and the wall is a nice, shady spot for lunch.

This link should show the tower.

Protection

Two #2 Camalot C4s, one #2 Camalot C3. Optional #.75 Camalot for the overhanging move if you are short and can't get a #2 over the lip.

At the top are a couple of drilled pins and two new bolts (as of November 2007) for a rap anchor.

Photos

Bill Lundeen
Lee Vining, CA
Bill Lundeen   Lee Vining, CA
As of late March, 2014, the anchor on Ansaid Tower has been repaired. A new angle piton has been added to the existing one. Seems safe to rappel now. Apr 14, 2014
Nate from Newnewfoundland   Tempe, AZ
 
The top anchor has probably seen better days. One of the bolts is loosely sitting in its hole, the other spins and looks like it'll have the same fate as its counterpart soon enough, but the rusty pin still seems bomber. There is however another nice new looking bolt to clip while pulling onto the summit that also protects your second. Mar 15, 2014
Tommey-James
Boulder,Colorado
  5.7
Tommey-James   Boulder,Colorado
  5.7
Fun route if you are tired and have done most of the stuff in the area Jul 7, 2011
JoergB
Germany
 
JoergB   Germany
 
Nice route for summit collectors. However not too long and friction climbing at the top. Oct 13, 2009
Lee Jensen  
 
Great route for the tower bagger. Easy and well protected. Nov 13, 2007
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
I didn't much care for this route, but don't feel strongly enough to give it an actual bomb. Just no stars. Nov 12, 2007